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Living Time: 5 Watches Created With Natural Materials

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We live in an era of cool, digital timekeeping. Our workdays are defined by electronic objects made from metal and plastic. Asphalt, glass, steel, and concrete surround us in our cities. No wonder we yearn for something different — for warm colors, materials from living sources, wood grain, textured leather and textiles; for the look of lifelike materials such as bronze, which changes over time and acquires a unique patina. Bronze also recalls the pre-industrial era and ships, which — despite the simplicity of their navigational tools — helped us discover and explore entire continents. In this feature from the WatchTime Special Design Issue 2017, we present several watches created using natural materials.

1. Fine Leather: Hublot Classic Fusion Berluti Scritto

Hublot Classic Fusion Berluti Scritto

Hublot Classic Fusion Berluti Scritto

Hublot collaborated with renowned luxury shoemaker Berluti to create the Classic Fusion Berluti Scritto. This watch combines two of the most distinctive features of the French leather specialist: Venezia calfskin with its signature light-to-dark tones and script originating from 18th-century calligraphy. Because leather is a living material it must undergo special treatment to inhibit moisture that would affect the movement inside the airtight case. Hublot’s proprietary King Gold is a perfect complement to the “tobacco” leather dial. The watch is powered by automatic Caliber HUB1100, which is based on a Sellita SW 300. This model is limited to 250 pieces and is priced at $29,400.

2. Bronze Diving Helmets: Oris Carl Brashear Limited Edition

Oris Carl Brashear Limited Edition

Oris Carl Brashear Limited Edition

Oris dedicates its bronze dive watch to Carl Brashear, who in 1948 became the first African-American U.S. Navy diver. And he was the first soldier who continued working as a diver despite the amputation of his leg. The watch’s 42-mm bronze case recalls old diving helmets, which were still made of this material in the 1950s. The unidirectional rotating bezel and the clasp on the leather strap are also made of bronze and acquire its distinctive patina. The brown leather strap and dark blue dial, combined with the bronze metal, provide an interesting color combination. The automatic Sellita SW 200 movement powers the watch. The 2,000-piece Carl Brashear Limited Edition costs $2,800.

3. Bronze and Military Textile: Tudor Heritage Black Bay Bronze

Tudor Heritage Black Bay Bronze

Tudor Heritage Black Bay Bronze

Tudor equips its Heritage Black Bay Bronze with a case made of aluminum bronze that quickly acquires an attractive, aged patina. It is resistant to salt water and is ideal for use as a dive watch. The bezel and dial are rendered in a coordinating brown tone. This dive watch has an olive-green and khaki textile strap, completing the retro-military look. The French marines used a similar strap for their Tudor dive watches. An in-house caliber MT5601 with automatic winding continues to run for 70 hours without additional power, and is tested and certified by COSC. This 43-mm bronze watch costs $3,975. It comes with an additional aged-leather strap.

4. Ship’s Clocks of Wood and Bronze: Bell & Ross BR 01 Instrument de Marine

Bell & Ross BR01 Instrument Marine

Bell & Ross BR01 Instrument de Marine

Bell & Ross found inspiration for its BR 01 Instrument de Marine watch in the marine chronometers of the 18th and 19th centuries. It’s not just the dial that recalls a ship’s clocks, but also the bronze case and the square frame made from Indian rosewood. This precious wood is hard and durable and presents a har-monic color composition alongside the bronze case and brown crocodile strap. The watch is powered by hand-wound Caliber 203, which is based on a Unitas 6498. Bell & Ross offers 500 pieces of the BR 01 Instrument de Marine, each priced at $8,700.

6. Wood Dashboards: Ralph Lauren’s Automotive Skeleton

Ralph Lauren Automotive Skeleton

Ralph Lauren Automotive Skeleton

Ralph Lauren’s Automotive Skeleton combines a black bead-blasted case with a bezel made of amboyna wood. This special hardwood comes from an Asian evergreen tree and is often used for musical instruments because of its beautiful grain. This natural material makes each watch unique. Company founder Ralph Lauren owns a black Bugatti Type 57 SC Atlantic Coupe from 1938, and the materials and color of its dashboard inspired the look of this watch. The blackened and skeletonized hand-wound Caliber RL1967 is based on an IWC proprietary movement. The 45-mm watch is priced at $50,000.

In our Design Issue we present even more special watches, including models inspired by tattoo art and high fashion. Get the Design Issue in our online shop and discover these and many other avante-garde timepieces.

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7 Modern Watches Inspired by Historical Pieces

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The vintage-look trend that has been so prevalent in the watch world in recent years has showed no signs of abating. Modern re-editions of historical pieces continue to emerge from some of the most venerable watch brands. Here are seven notable examples of “vintage-inspired” watches launched in recent years.

1. Omega Globemaster

Omega Globemaster - blue dial - front

Omega Globemaster

The Omega Globemaster — the first watch to receive the brand’s “Master Chronometer” certification — is technically a new model in the Omega portfolio, but it gets its design cues from earlier models: the “pie pan” dial echoes that of a vintage Omega Constellation from 1952; and the fluted bezel is derived from that of another Constellation model from 1968. The 39-mm case (available in stainless steel, yellow gold, two-tone steel and yellow gold, and Omega’s proprietary Sedna gold) has a brushed finish, with two polished bevels connecting the edges of the lugs to the bezel. The top ridges of the fluted bezel have a smoothed finish. The “Master Chronometer” movement, Caliber 8900, meets not only the strict precision requirements of Swiss testing agency COSC, but additional standards established by Omega and METAS, the Swiss Federal Institute of Metrology, which include functioning while exposed to magnetic fields up to 15,000 Gauss. Click here for more details on the Omega Globemaster.

2. Tudor North Flag

TUDOR NORTH FLAG - front

Tudor North Flag

The Tudor North Flag derives its name and design inspiration from the British North Greenland Expedition in the early 1950s, in which members of the expedition team wore circa-1952 Tudor Oyster Prince models. These “tool watches” were instrumental in carrying out this exploratory mission to some of the earth’s harshest climatic conditions. The North Flag owes some of its “scientific equipment” look to these early watches: a satin-brushed steel case (40 mm in diameter) with ergonomic curves, highlighted by a bezel composed of matte ceramic on one side and brushed steel on the other, along with a conical winding crown that screws down for a 100-meter water resistance. The caseback features a sapphire window through which one can view the movement, automatic Caliber MT5621, which also happens to be the brand’s first in-house-made movement. Click here for more on the Tudor North Flag.

3. Breitling Transocean Chronograph 1915

Breitling Transocean Chronograph 1915 Soldier strap 560

Breitling Transocean Chronograph 1915

The Breitling Transocean Chronograph 1915 marks the 100th anniversary of a major design innovation that we too often take for granted on contemporary chronographs. In the early 20th century, all chronographs were monopushers, with the controls for starting, stopping, and returning the timer to zero all placed in the crown. In 1915, Gaston Breitling, son of founder Léon Breitling, designed a timing watch with a separate pusher to control the start, stop and reset functions. He placed it on the side of the case at 2 o’clock, just above the crown. The 2 o’clock positioning would soon become standard, as it was easy to reach and control on the wrist. This limited edition watch plays off of these roots, updating them for a dial and case design in keeping with the Transocean collection. An angled pusher sits at 2 o’clock, above the fluted crown. The silvered dial has a bicompax display: a small-seconds subdial is at 9 o’clock and a 30-minute counter at 3 o’clock. The watch is fitted with an all-new manufacture movement, Caliber B14, which is manually wound and Chronometer-certified by COSC. (For more on the Breitling Transocean Chronograph 1915, click here.)

4. Longines Pulsometer Chronograph

Longines Pulsometer Chronograph

Longines Pulsometer Chronograph

A watch from the 1920s provided the template for the Longines Pulsometer Chronograph, a timepiece whose primary function was intended for use by medical professionals. The so-called “doctor’s watch” has a pulsometric scale printed in red around the periphery of the lacquered, white dial. Used in conjunction with the sweeping chronograph hand (which is operated by a monopusher in the crown), the scale enables the wearer to measure one’s heartbeat in a simple and reliable manner. The 40-mm steel case has a sapphire crystal in the front and back and contains the Longines-exclusive L788.2 movement, developed by ETA, which is outfitted with a column-wheel chronograph and holds a power reserve of 54 hours.

5. Patek Philippe Calatrava Pilot Travel Time Ref. 5524

Patek Philippe Ref. 5524 - soldier

As many watch enthusiasts are aware, Patek Philippe has a long history in world-time watches, developing its first “Heure Universelle” timepieces with famous watchmaker Louis Cottier, in 1930 and awarded a patent for its original “Travel Time” mechanism in 1959. What fewer may know is that the brand also has a history in aviation, developing notable “siderometer” (or “hour angle”) wristwatches back in the early days of flight, two of which are now on display in Patek’s museum in Geneva and serve as the inspiration for the Patek Philippe Calatrava Pilot Travel Time Ref. 5524. This very unconventional Patek watch has the look of an early-20th-century pilots’ watch (albeit one in a white-gold case) and is equipped with Patek’s Caliber 324 S C FUS, with an easy-to-use and aviator-friendly second-time-zone function. Aesthetic touches include the dark navy blue dial, inspired by the body paint of 1930s American fighter planes, and the vintage brown calfskin leather strap with contrast top-stitching, reminiscent of the leather belts worn by 1930s pilots. (Click here for more on the Calatrava Pilot Travel Time.)

6. Seiko Grand Seiko 62GS

Seiko Grand Seiko 62GS - steel

The Seiko Grand Seiko 62GS is based upon the very first Grand Seiko watch with an automatic movement, released in 1967. Following up on the previous two Grand Seiko Historical Collection releases — the re-imagined 44GS in 2013 and the 1964 “Self Dater” last year — the recreation of the 62GS is highly reminiscent of the original, which fans of the brand fondly remember for its mirrored, multi-sided case (achieved with Seiko’s “Zaratsu polishing”); large “bezel free” dial opening; long, sharply edged hands typical of the Grand Seiko line; and recessed crown at 4 o’clock, a clever means to convey to the watch’s owner that hand-winding was not required. It is powered by Seiko’s mechanical Caliber 9S65, with automatic winding and a 72-hour power reserve. Inherited features from the original watch include the lion emblem on the caseback and “Diashock” logo (referring to Seiko’s shock protection technology) on the dial. (For more on the 62GS, along with other versions of it, click here.)

7. Oris Diver Sixty-Five

Oris Diver 65The Oris Diver Sixty-Five revives the look of an Oris dive watch released 50 years ago and gives it a 21st century makeover. The 1965 model had a chromium-plated brass case and plexiglas crystal, a bidirectional rotating bezel, and a black plastic strap, while the new version has a larger, more contemporary 40-mm case in corrosion-resistant stainless steel; a scratch-resistant, nonreflective sapphire crystal with a “bubble-curved” shape; and a safer (for diving) unidirectional bezel. The bezel of the Diver Sixty-Five is enhanced with a very of-the-moment black aluminum inlay, and the hands and indices (filled with tritium on the original model) are filled with a type of Super-LumiNova called “Light Old Radium” whose beige glow contrasts nicely with the black dial in the dark. The steel caseback is engraved with the same historical Oris emblem found on the original’s, the crown screws down to ensure a water-resistance to 100 meters, and the modern version is available on a black textile NATO strap and steel bracelet as well as a rubber strap. The movement is Oris’s automatic Caliber 733, which is based on a Sellita SW200. (For a hands-on review of the Oris Diver Sixty-Five, click here.)

This article was originally published in 2015 and has been updated.

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Time Explorers: 6 Watches Tough Enough for the Outdoors

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When climbing or hiking, mountain biking or camping, a watch needs to be sturdy and able to withstand scratches and impacts. Outdoors, far away from work, the pressures of everyday schedules quickly fall away. In this feature from the WatchTime archives, we highlight six watches designed to rediscover that lost time.

BALL WATCH ENGINEER HYDROCARBON DEVGRU ($2,199)

Ball Engineer Hydrocarbon DEVGRU - rubber strap - blue dial

Ball Engineer Hydrocarbon DEVGRU

Hands gripping the wheel of the offroad vehicle as you race down the bumpy, rocky slope, your watch will need to withstand all sorts of rattles and shocks. Ball Watch secures the Engineer Hydrocarbon DEVGRU with a wide range of protective mechanisms in and on the case. the greatest point of weakness on a case – the crown – is surrounded by an unusual crown guard designed to protect the automatic ETA 2836 movement from damage. Ball Watch uses a patented anti-shock escapement system, and the hairspring is given a protective metal ring. Even the top crystal and the black dial are protected. The bezel of this 42-mm stainless-steel case extends slightly above the sapphire crystal to protect it from breakage. The case itself can withstand a fall from a height of 1.5 meters without damage – one-and-a-half times greater than the distance required by shock absorber standards. With water resistance of up to 100 meters and a rubber strap, the Engineer may easily take a plunge, even if your vehicle may not.

SINN EZM 12 ($3,340)

Sinn EZM12

Sinn EZM12

Sinn calls its sturdy watches “Einsatzmesser,” or “mission timers,” also known as “EZM.” their functions are tailored to each watch’s specific application. The EZM 12 watch was designed for air rescue, with a bezel that can be removed using a special tool so the entire watch can be cleaned and disinfected after use. there’s an easy-to-use pulsometer track on the dial, which can be used to measure your heart rate or anyone else’s on your team. The EZM 12 features a 44-mm bead-blasted steel case that prevents distracting reflections. Sinn’s Tegiment coating protects the case from scratches by rocks or almost anything else. With a pressure resistance of up to 200 meters, the EZM 12 can stay on your wrist even during a refreshing dip in a mountain stream. Sinn guarantees its function within a temperature range of -45 to +80 degrees c (-49 to +176 degrees F) – a practical feature when climbing icy mountain peaks in summer temperatures.

TAG HEUER AQUARACER 300M KHAKI ($2,800)

TAG Heuer Aquaracer Khaki

TAG Heuer Aquaracer 300M Khaki

Pitching a tent in the middle of the woods, starting a campfire without a match – that’s roughing it. And to avoid waking any slumbering bears, it might be good to wear muted colors. The TAG Heuer Aquaracer 300M Khaki is unobtrusive, entirely decked out in natural khaki color. Water resistant to a depth of 300 meters, it can accompany scouts on expeditions in and under water. The fabric strap provides a secure fit on the wrist and can be completely removed if needed. The case measures 43 mm across and is made of black PVD-coated titanium. This material is especially lightweight but very sturdy and resilient. TAG Heuer combines it with another hard, scratch-resistant material in the form of a green anodized aluminum bezel. The watch is powered by an automatic ETA 2824 movement, which can help the wearer remember to turn the steaks on the grill promptly.

ORIS BIG CROWN PROPILOT CHRONOGRAPH ($3,400)

 

Oris Big Crown ProPilot Chronograph

Oris Big Crown ProPilot Chronograph

Excursions into nature are fun until the weather turns nasty. That’s when a chronograph with a telemeter track can come in handy. It’s a way to measure your distance from threatening thunderclouds and lightning. Registering the time on the track between seeing lightning and hearing thunder allows you to determine the distance. The Big Crown ProPilot Chronograph from Oris provides this helpful feature. It’s powered by an automatic Sellita SW500 movement, housed in a 44-mm stainless-steel case. A grooved case edge and a fabric strap in black or green provide a sporty look. After the day’s excursion is done, you can change the look with an easy-to-attach leather strap.

FORMEX AS 1100, MODEL 8199 ($1,585)

Formex AS 1100 Model 8199

Formex AS 1100 Model 8199

Extreme sports like offroad racing and freestyle mountain biking are attracting more and more thrill seekers. An outdoor watch for these activities needs to be carefully designed to withstand shocks and impacts. Formex has created a special, patented shock-absorbing case — made of titanium, measuring 46.5 mm in diameter, and easily recognizable by its four-cornered design — for the 8199 chronograph. The suspension system is designed for greater wearing comfort and to protect its automatic ETA Valjoux 7750 movement from vibration and impacts. This technology has an inherently technical and sporty look, with a black PVD finish on the case and a black carbon fiber dial. All-white dial elements and highlighted hands ensure excellent legibility. The chronograph hands stand out in bright red. The model 8199 in the AS 1100 collection is limited to 999 pieces. A rubber strap holds the watch securely in place, even during the most daring mountain bike maneuvers.

DAMASKO DA 43 BLACK (1,440 euros)

Damasko DA 43 Black

Damasko DA 43 Black

A Damasko watch will look like new even after the most strenuous hike – probably much better than its wearer! For its timepieces, Damasko uses exclusive cold-hardened, nickel-free stainless steel. This metal is about four times harder than conventional stainless steel due to its special heat treatment. The 42-mm case also has a black Damest coating that makes scratching it virtually impossible. In combination with a screw-down crown, crown guard and threaded caseback, the DA 43 Black is water resistant to a depth of 100 meters. It runs on an automatic ETA 2836 that shows the time, date and day of the week. The movement is protected against magnetic fields thanks to a soft iron inner lining. The entire surface of the dial is coated with Super-LumiNova so it is perfectly legible at all times.

Highlights from WatchTime’s March-April Issue, On Sale Now

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The second WatchTime issue of 2018 hits newsstands today, with highlights ranging from an interview with Zenith CEO Julien Tornare, profiles of Antoine Preziuso and Ulysse Nardin CEO Patrick Pruniaux, a test of the Tudor Black Bay Chronograph, in-depth reviews of new watches from IWC Schaffhausen, Longines, Omega, and Oris, a deep dive into the state of the digital pre-owned watch market, and much more. Read on for more details…

  • Tudor‘s Heritage Black Bay Chronograph profits from a collaboration with Breitling while drawing deeply from Tudor’s own history. In “Line of Succession,” Martina Richter tests what was one of 2017’s most talked about sport watches.
  • In “No Faults Found,” Martina Richter takes the Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean out of the water and into the doctor’s office to see how it can handle the continuous magnetic force of an MRI scan.
  • Oris has created an innovative practical second time zone for its new pilots’ watch. So, how well does the Big Crown ProPilot Worldtimer perform in daily use? Jens Koch finds out.
  • In just a few years, Pascal Raffy has managed to successfully revive the Bovet brand, build an independent manufacture with an unmistakably designed collection — and even become the owner of a castle. WatchTime Editor-in-Chief Roger Ruegger and WatchTime Digitial Media Editor Mark Bernardo explore the brand’s resurrection in this collaborative piece.
  • We discover how the internet has transformed the secondary watch market into an organized multi-billion dollar industry.
  • Watchmaker Antoine Preziuso transforms his creative ideas into one-of-a-kind timepieces for dedicated watch lovers. Contributor Katrin Nikolaus explores his life and career in this profile.
  • Mark Bernardo looks over the expansive new IWC Jubilee Collection, released to celebrate the brand’s 150th anniversary.
  • Plus: The definitive guide to living and caring for bronze watches; reviews of the Longines Heritage Chronograph 1940 and IWC’s Big Pilot’s line; checking out the many high-accuracy quartz watches currently on the market; a conversation with Patrick Pruniaux, the newly-minted CEO of Ulysse Nardin; a look at how Chronoswiss forges ahead under new ownership; and more.

10 Green Watches to go with Your Pint of Guinness on St. Patrick’s Day

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Green watches are proving more and more popular these days, so what better holiday to highlight a few of our favorite viridescent watches than St. Patrick’s Day? We’ve collected a few of the more notable models, but with so many brands embracing the hue, we restricted it to timepieces released in the past two years. Unfortunately, that means that the Rolex Hulk (a Submariner with a green dial and bezel originally released in 2010) and the Kermit (a Submariner with a black dial and green bezel originally released in 2003), two of the most popular green watches, won’t be making an appearance this time.

The Panerai Radiomir 1940 3 Days Acciaio PAM 736

Panerai Radiomir 1940 3 Days Acciaio - 47 mm - reclining

Panerai Radiomir 1940 3 Days Acciaio – 47 mm

Last fall, Panerai released three green-dialed watches. Our favorite was the PAM 739. Slightly larger than the rest, at 47 mm in diameter, the Panerai Radiomir 1940 3 Days Acciaio is constructed from a single block of AS 316L stainless steel and features integrated lugs. The dial has the large Arabic numerals and linear hour markers characteristic of Panerai, along with a date window at 3 o’clock and a small seconds subdial at 9 o’clock. Powering the watch is the manufacture Caliber P.3000, with a three-day power reserve and large, brushed-finish bridges, including two bridges with twin supports for the massive 13.2-mm balance wheel. This manual-winding movement also features a quick-adjustment function for the hour hand. The price: $9,200. You can read more about the other models here.

The Grand Seiko Hi-Beat 3600 LE

 

 

Grand Seiko, fresh off rechristening itself as a separate brand at Baselworld 2017, kept the hits rolling last fall when it unveiled this distinctive take on the Hi-Beat 36000 GMT. The ornate dial pattern is meant to resemble a Peacock’s plumage, quickly earning this model the Peacock nom de guerre among Seiko-holics everywhere. Limited to 700 total pieces, the watch has quickly become a favorite among watch enthusiasts looking for a darker and less flashy green watch. At $6,500, it offers an excellent value proposition considering the Japanese brand’s world-class finishing.

The Hublot Classic Fusion in Green

If you’re looking for a watch that combines the viridescent dial of the Rolex Hulk but aren’t interested in picking up a diver, then this new line of Hublot Classic Fusions released during the LVMH Geneva Days show that runs concurrently with SIHH deserves a look. There are ten new watches featuring this specific dial color that, depending on the light, can transition from a bright, grassy green to an almost-black color. The watches come in four different sizes, 33  mm, 38 mm, 42 mm, and 45 mm, and the choice of a case made from Hublot’s proprietary King Gold or a satin-finished and polished titanium. Add in two chronograph options and you’ve got a collection that the whole family can break out during St. Patrick’s Day. Prices range from CHF 5,300 (approximately $5,560 USD at the time of publishing) for the 33 mm titanium model, to 29,300 CHF (approximately $30,750 USD at the time of publishing) for the King Gold Chronograph.

The MB&F Legacy Machine Perpetual in Titanium

Back at the end of February, the good folks at MB&F released a new take on the GPHG award-winning and fan-favorite Legacy Machine Perpetual Calendar. The big news here? The watch appeared for the first time in titanium. While a pessimist might point out the blueish hints to the green that courses throughout the skeletonized dial, there’s easily enough to keep any drunken revelers from surprising you with a hard pinch. It’s limited to 50 total pieces and priced at $148,000.

The Rado True Thinline Leaf

 

Announced last month as a pre-Baselworld teaser, the Rado True Thinline Leaf embraces both the design panaché the brand is known for as well as the high-tech ceramic usage they popularized. While the green ceramic bracelet and case are attractive enough, it’s the dial that really steals the show. Inspired by nature, the green mother-of-pearl dial has a leaf pattern printed on its underside causing a dizzying effect when the light bounces on and off of it. It’s a unique piece that is worth seeing in person to fully appreciate the contrast between the detailed veins of a leaf and the classic mother-of-pearl sheen. It’s priced at $2,000 and will be available post-Baselworld. Check out Rado’s other pre-Baselworld 2018 novelty here.

The Sinn 3006 Hunter Chronograph

This Sinn model boasts a moon phase that is completely unnecessary in the United States but is totally awesome in its own right. The German federal hunting laws — also known as Bundesjagdgesetz —prohibits hunting with the aid of artificial light sources. In order to hunt game at night, there must be adequate natural lighting from the moon. To figure what night offers the legal amount of light, the crafty German manufactory designed this moon phase to show when the moonlight is bright enough. It’s priced at $3,970.

The H. Moser Endeavour Centre Seconds Concept Cosmic GreenH. Moser & Cie Endeavour Centre Seconds Concept Cosmic Green - lifestyle

As it did two years ago, H. Moser & Cie. introduced a special-edition piece in its “Concept” collection at SIHH 2017. The Endeavour Centre Seconds Concept Cosmic Green was limited to 20 pieces each in white and rose gold when it was first released. The green fumé dial is unblemished by subdials, windows, numerals, indices, not even a brand logo. It’s the first fumé dial — the brand’s specialty — that features the color green. Learn more here.

The MeisterSinger N.02MeisterSinger Green Dial

The German watch brand MeisterSinger introduced the green-dialed No.02 at Baselworld 2016. The watch is one of three pieces – the others are the Neo and the Pangaea – that featured this all-new color called “Rensing Green.” The color, which first appeared on the brand’s Salthora Meta jumping-hour in 2015, was created by Nico Rensing, a longtime member of MeisterSinger’s international sales team. More details about the No.02 and its green companions can be found in this article.

 

The Oris Diver Sixty-FiveOris Diver Sixty-Five - green dial

This dark-green-dial-version of the Divers Sixty-Five from Oris was added to the popular vintage-inspired dive watch collection in 2016. The hands and indices are filled with a type of colored Super-LumiNova called “Light Old Radium.” The watch is available with four different bracelet and strap options. More details can be found here.

The Frederique Constant Classic Worldtimer Manufacture

Frederique Constant Classic Worldtimer Manufacture - green

Frederique Constant Classic Worldtimer Manufacture – green

The Frederique Constant Classic Worldtimer Manufacture, which debuted in a brown-and-rose-gold version last year, sports a new green-and-silver look in this pre-Baselworld 2018 incarnation. Like its predecessors, the watch has a three-part stainless steel case measuring 42 mm in diameter and a world-map dial swept over by hand-polished, luminous-treated hour and minute hands, and is powered by an in-house movement, Caliber FC-718. Composed of 139 parts, and visible through a sapphire caseback, it beats at a frequency of 28,800 vph, stores a power reserve of 42 hours, and features perlage and côtes de Genève finishing on its bridges and plates. The movement is notable for its world-time function, which is controlled entirely by the crown, with no additional push-buttons or correctors needed. The wearer can manually wind the watch by turning the crown upwards in its first position; set the date and city by turning it upward and downward, respectively, in its second position; and set the local time by turning it downward in its third, fully extracted position. The dial is surrounded by two disks, with a 24-hour day-night scale and a city indicator representing the 24 major world time zones. The dark green tint in the ocean areas of the world map, the date disk at 6 o’clock, and the world-time city disk is echoed by the dark green strap with white contrast stitching. You can learn more here.

 

The Bronze Age: Oris Releases Multiple Vintage-Influenced Models

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Hot on the heels of the fan-favorite Carl Brashear Chronograph, Oris has released three previously unseen models at Baselworld 2018. We have new updates to the Divers Sixty-Five, the ProPilot collection, and two updates to the Big Crown.

Oris has gone all in on the bronze trend, with two new Sixty-Five models, one in 40 mm and one in 36 mm, that feature a bronze ring around the bezel. It’s slightly smaller than previous Sixty-Five models at 40 mm, but is overall similar to previous editions of the Sixty-Five. It shows that Oris is listening to consumer feedback and presenting a product that enthusiasts both appreciate and is able to stand on its own in a sea of vintage-inspired divers that have proliferated through the market over the past three to four years. Both new models use a modified Sellita SW 200-1 movement — dubbed the Oris Caliber 733 — with a date at 6 o’clock. This new Sixty-Five should help quench the thirst for the extremely popular and limited Carl Brashear line. It’s a move that makes a lot of sense, both for the brand and the consumer.

What’s really interesting here is the new 36 mm diver. Last year during Baselworld, we saw Rado make waves with the 37.5 mm Captain Cook. This year, Oris has followed suit with a smaller model that is more authentic to the vintage aesthetic. This is a model that can easily switch between genders and is definitely appealing to someone who appreciates the trend of embracing smaller men’s sizes.

Both models are priced at CHF 1,950 on a strap and CHF 2,150 on a stainless steel bracelet. They will be available in April, coinciding with the official retail arrival of the Carl Brashear Chronograph.

The Big Crown ProPilot Caliber 114 is the latest release within the ProPilot collection. This new model serves as the introduction for the brand’s latest in-house developed caliber. The big news here is the power reserve. At 10 days, this is one of the heartiest movements the brand has come out with. The patented non-linear power reserve indicator, oversized crown, and faceted bezel (inspired by jet engine blades) are all here like previous ProPilot models but the watch includes a new addition: a 24-hour second time zone with half-hour indication. This is the first time this has been done by a Swiss brand in a mechanical timepiece. While this might not be the most useful for those that tend to stay in the Western hemisphere, if your summer includes jaunts between India and Australia, half-hour indications can come in mighty handy.

Interestingly, the base for the Caliber 114 uses the same architecture as Calibers 110 through 113. How the ten-day power reserve was possible was through the introduction of a single oversized barrel. The power reserve indicator — which boasts greater accuracy as the days go by — is controlled by a handmade worm gear designed specifically for Oris’s movement suite.

The Big Crown ProPilot Caliber 114 is water resistant to 100 m. It comes on either a Louisana Crocodile leather strap (CHF 5,800), a stainless steel bracelet (5,700), or a black, olive, or gray textile strap (CHF 5,500). It will be available in June.

A few months back, I had the opportunity to see most of these new Oris models in person. I appreciated the Carl Brashear Chronograph as much as anyone else and really did enjoy the dial sheen on the Clipperton Limited Edition. The balanced look of the GMT Rega LE was something enjoyable to see in the metal as well. Walking out from that meeting, however, the model that spoke to the most was the new Big Crown Pointer Date.

Originally introduced in the 1980s, the first Big Crown Pointer Date helped bring back mechanical watchmaking to the Oris manufacture. It quickly became a best seller for the brand and was highly recognizable thanks to the smooth case, tapered lugs, coin-edged bezel, oversized crown, and central date pointer hand. The new Pointer Date for 2018 has been reworked for a more modern palate. The Oris team slimmed up the case to make it more business appropriate and added a bubble-curved sapphire crystal. There are two sizes here, 36 and 40 mm, and multiple different color options. Referencing the cherished Swiss-French architect/designer/writer Le Corbusier’s Polychromie Architecturale school, there are two distinct versions: one in light green (think minty) and a gray-blue that works really well with the bright red tip of the pointer hand.

 

That’s not all — Oris is also introducing the pointer date in a bronze version. Ramping up the vintage love, this version only comes in 36 mm and the faded green color. It’s without-a-doubt aimed at women, which is great as I can’t think of another bronze ladies’ watch currently on the market.

All the new Pointer Date models use the Oris Caliber 754 — based on Sellita SW 200-1 — with a pointer date. Both stainless steel models are priced at CHF 1,550 on a strap and CHF 1,750 on a stainless steel bracelet. Both of those will be available in June. The bronze model is priced at CHF 1,800 and will be available in July.

Time Tools: 8 Tool Watches From Luxury Brands

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The phrase “tool watch” was originally coined to describe watches that serve as tools to accomplish specific tasks, such as a divers’ watch with a rotatable bezel and high resistance to pressure that is designed to be used underwater. And while you wouldn’t want to use these tool watches to hammer nails, they emphasize functionality and are robust, accurate, legible and (ideally) not excessively expensive in case they suffer a scratch or two during rough usage. In this article from our July-August 2017 issue, we present eight of them.

1. ORIS BIG CROWN PROPILOT DATE ($1,550)

Oris Big Crown ProPilot

Oris Big Crown ProPilot Date

This pilots’ watch from Oris achieves optimal legibility thanks to its matte dial and impossible-to-overlook hands and numerals, which are coated with plenty of luminous material. The big crown can be operated while wearing gloves. The textile strap is steplessly adjustable thanks to a clamping system; the clasp works like the buckle on a seatbelt aboard an aircraft. With a date display on its dial and a time- tested automatic movement inside its case, this watch offers everything you need. Stainless steel, 41 mm, Sellita SW 220, automatic

2. TUDOR PELAGOS LHD ($4,400)

Tudor Pelagos LHD

Tudor Pelagos LHD

The letters “LHD” in the name of this divers’ watch stand for “left-hand drive,” like a car with its steering wheel on the left. For a watch, LHD means that the crown is located opposite its usual position. This is convenient for a southpaw who wears the watch on his right wrist. But this watch can also be worn on the left wrist, thus keeping the crown especially well protected against impacts. Tudor’s own auto- matic movement has earned a chronometer certificate and accordingly runs with great precision. The titanium case is extremely resistant to salt- water and can resist water pressure to a depth of 500 meters. A helium-release valve rounds out the professional equipment. Titanium, 42 mm, manufacture Caliber MT5612, automatic; click here for more details.

3. CERTINA DS ACTION DIVER AUTOMATIC ($895)

Certina DS Action Diver

Certina DS Action Diver Automatic

The DS Action Diver Automatic upholds the ISO standard for divers’ watches. The stainless-steel case is water resistant to 200 meters and has a rotatable bezel with a diving scale. The dial has luminous indexes, along with plenty of luminous material on the hands to assure that the face is always clearly legible, even underwater and in the dark. The time-tested automatic movement and the robust stainless-steel bracelet equip this timepiece for every mission. The price is appealing, too. Stainless steel, 43.2 mm, ETA 2824, automatic.

4. SEIKO PROSPEX AUTOMATIC DIVER’S ($495)

Seiko Prospex Diver

Seiko Prospex Automatic Diver’s

Nicknamed “Turtle” because of the shape of its case, the Prospex Automatic Diver’s was introduced in the 1970s. With an indestructible urethane wristband, a case that resists water pressure to a depth of 200 meters, and a unidirectional rotatable bezel, this watch is optimally equipped to accompany a diver underwater. And despite its low price, it has a self-winding manufacture movement. Seiko makes the crystal from Hardlex, which isn’t quite as scratch-resistant as sapphire, but nonetheless harder than ordinary mineral crystal. Stainless steel, 44 mm, manufacture Caliber 4R36, automatic.

5. TAG HEUER AQUARACER 300M CALIBRE 5 ($2,800)

TAG Heuer Aquaracer Calibre 5

TAG Heuer Aquaracer 300M Calibre 5

This classic divers’ watch from TAG Heuer has a trendy military look with a black titanium case, sand-colored textile strap, and sand-colored elements and gray luminous material on the dial. The watch has plenty to offer from a functional standpoint, too: Black titanium-carbide coating resists scratches and the screwed crown contributes toward achieving pressure resistance to a depth of 300 meters. The nonreflective treatment on the sapphire crystal helps assure good legibility. Titanium coated with titanium carbide, 43 mm, ETA 2824 or Sellita SW 200, automatic.

6. BREITLING AVENGER BLACKBIRD ($5,105)

Breitling Avenger Blackbird

Breitling Avenger Blackbird

The militarily inspired Avenger Blackbird has a distinctive 48-mm case made of DLC-coated titanium. The coating helps prevent reflections from light, which could betray its wearer’s location. With a unidirectional rotatable bezel, screwed crown, and water resistance to 300 meters, this timepiece is also suitable for diving. In addition to the case, the dial and textile strap are also black. The luminous material on the hands and indexes is beige in daylight conditions. Breitling’s Caliber 17 is based on an ETA 2824 movement and has earned a chronometer certificate to confirm its accuracy. DLC-coated titanium, 48 mm, ETA 2824, automatic; for more on the Blackbird, click here.)

7. ROLEX EXPLORER II ($8,100)

Rolex Explorer II

Rolex Explorer II

This watch, which debuted in 1971, is made for adventurers, researchers and expedition members. Equipped with a second time zone, the continually updated design has become iconic. This model epitomizes a tool watch, although its high price might make its wearer feel annoyed if the case should suffer a scratch or two. The 904L stainless steel that Rolex uses is more resistant to saltwater than ordinary 316L steel. And Rolex’s manufacture caliber is regarded as the sturdiest and lowest-maintenance automatic movement. Rolex’s famous accuracy is assured not only by a chronometer certificate, but also by the brand’s in-house standards, which specify that the watch be so finely adjusted that it neither gains nor loses more than two seconds per day. Stainless steel, 42 mm, manufacture Caliber 3187, automatic.

8. ALPINA ALPINER 4 AUTOMATIC ($1,395)

Alpina Alpiner 4

Alpina Alpiner 4 Automatic

Developed for rugged excursions and mountain climbing, the Alpiner 4 is equipped with a sturdy, 44-mm stainless-steel case and a unidirectional rotatable bezel. A soft-iron inner case protects the automatic movement against magnetic fields. The hands and indexes are coated with white luminous material for good legibility. The screwed crown helps keep the case water resistant to 100 meters. Stainless steel, 44 mm, Sellita SW 200, automatic; more details here.)

This article appears in the July-August 2017 issue of WatchTime Magazine.

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The Basics of the Rotating Divers’ Watch Bezel

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In this article in our series on the basics of divers’ watches, we take on what is probably the most distinctive element of a dive watch: the rotating bezel.

Its function is actually quite simple: before a diver’s descent, the 12 o’clock bezel marker is aligned with the minute hand, allowing the elapsed time, up to 60 minutes, to be read on the bezel (which is why quite a few dive watches come with a particularly prominent minute hand). A unidirectional, ratcheting construction ensures that – if the bezel is accidentally moved – the time already spent underwater would be indicated as longer than actually spent, providing the diver with a safety reserve for his now more imminent ascent. The bezel/minute hand combination does not, however, directly measure how much air remains in the air tank, as still can be read quite often in press releases.

A standard scuba dive (in which the diver is equipped with a standard air tank) usually lasts 30 to 50 minutes, mostly depending on the depth reached and the shape the diver is in (basically, how physically demanding the dive is). This explains why the first 15 to 20 minutes on the bezel inlay are often more highlighted – the end of this sector theoretically indicates the point of return (exception: “countdown” bezels that mark the time of ascent). In order to correctly time decompression stops at the end of a dive, central-minutes chronographs such as the Aquastar Benthos or even split-minute chronographs, such as the IWC Aquatimer Chronograph from 2004, offer an interesting complication (should the diver not use a computer).

Omega Seamaster Ploprof

But, back to the start of a dive: In reality, the bezel is aligned when the diver is geared up and ready to begin the dive — which is, most of the time, when he is already in the water or on a boat right before entering the water. It is rarely performed in a dry hotel room, wearing no gloves, when one is able to take off the watch to comfortably set its bezel. So, despite how much I personally love the Omega Ploprof (which features a bi-directional external bezel with a locking mechanism) and the Hublot Oceanographic 4000 (whose unidirectional internal bezel is operated via a screw-down crown which is then placed behind a protective cover), neither are among the easiest watches to be operated single-handedly when worn in the water. And I would strongly advise you never to remove a wet luxury watch from your wrist when there’s a bottomless pit below you.

From a construction point-of-view, there are two main approaches:

1. External bezel

First used for a dive watch by Rolex and Blancpain (inspired by earlier pilots’ watches) in 1953/54, this is still the simplest and most user-friendly approach. Disadvantages include wear from debris,sand or salt getting between the case and the bezel, and the possibility of accidentally moving or damaging the bezel.

As a solution to these issues, Citizen introduced a removable bezel with the Citizen Promaster 1000 in 2002, and IWC launched the Ocean 2000 in 1984, with a bezel that could only be operated counter-clockwise when pushed down (an idea re-introduced in 1998 with its GST Aquatimer). This concept was similarly executed earlier by Certina, with its DS-2 500m in 1968, and later in 2003 by TAG Heuer for the Aquagraph 2000 Chronograph (with a two part bezel) and by Oris in 2009 with the Oris Prodiver (whose bezel needed to be lifted). More or less complicated bezel locking mechanisms — as first introduced on the Omega Ploprof in 1970 and again in its modern version in 2009 — can also be found in the Hublot Subaquaneus, the Squale Tiger, some models from UTS, Germano, and Glycine, and, of course, in older Yema models.

Citizen Promaster 1000 bezel - surface, not set

Citizen Promaster 1000, before (above) and after (below) setting the bezel and submerging

Citizen Promaster 1000 bezel - submerged, set

2. Internal bezel

Most likely introduced by Aquastar in the 1960s. In this construction, the bezel is located inside the watch and is thus protected by the crystal, giving the watch a more elegant look. The bezel can only be operated with a (usually additional) crown, quite often in both directions (exceptions include the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Diver, Hublot Oceanographic, etc.). Disadvantage: An additional opening in the case (except maybe for the first Aquastar models, and the recent Maurice Lacroix Pontos S, in which the chronograph pusher also operates the bezel) and often a rather small crown to fumble with. The more secure it is designed (unidirectional, screw-in), the less practical it becomes for diving.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Diver

In 2002, Eterna introduced, with its KonTiki Diver, an interesting first fusion of both concepts: the internal bezel could be operated from the outside, a concept that first allowed a water resistance of 200 meters and, in 2005, up to 1,000 meters with the more radical-looking Concept Diver.

In 2014, IWC went all the way and seems now to be offering, for the first time, the best of both worlds: The current IWC Aquatimer family features a system, called Safedive, that combines a unidirectional internal bezel that can only be rotated with a ratcheting external bezel (which can be moved in both directions, but only counter-clockwise for adjusting the internal bezel). The IWC video below demonstrates how it works:

So, after more than 60 years of dive watches, this may be the ring that rules them all…

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Splash! A Plunge Into the Colorful World of Watersports Watches

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Take the plunge with us into the colorful world of water sports. Here you can find professional instruments with appealing technologies, styles, and prices. In this article, we present divers’ watches without complex additional functions (e.g., chronographs) because the watches listed here are designed to focus your undivided attention on the time of day and the dive time. Screwed crowns and unidirectional rotatable divers’ bezels are standard equipment on dive watches and, therefore, are not specifically mentioned in the following descriptions.

IWC Aquatimer Automatic 2000

IWC Schaffhausen recently added bright yellow accents to its professional divers’ watch. Its other features are the same as those on the standard model with conventionally colored luminous material: water tightness to 2,000 meters, 46-mm titanium case, rubber strap with an extension piece, manufacture Caliber 80110, and special dive-time system. The dive time is preset by turning the bezel counter-clockwise, which causes the inner scale to come along for the ride; but when the bezel is rotated clockwise, the inner dive- time ring remains motionless. With so much built-in security, no reservations remain – except perhaps the price of $9,500.

Sinn U2 S

Boasting a case made of specially hardened submarine steel with a hard coating, this ticking jack-of-all-trades from Frankfurt am Main resists corrosion by saltwater and stays watertight to 2,000 meters. But that’s not all: Sinn’s own stay-dry technology relies on a sulfate capsule to effectively capture any moisture that might penetrate into the case as the years go by. Furthermore, tests conducted inside a climatic exposure cabinet guarantee that this 44-mm wristwatch functions perfectly at temperatures ranging from -49 to + 176 degrees Fahrenheit. The bracelet and case are equally well protected against scratches; the former culminates in a folding clasp with a divers’-extension mechanism. Along with the time of day or night and the date, ETA’s self-winding Caliber 2893 also shows the time in a second time zone. Considering all you get for your money, $3,230 isn’t a bad price to pay.

Seiko Prospex Automatic Diver’s

This Japanese manufacturer’s Prospex line includes higher-priced dive watches as well as excellent entry-level models. The classic among them is designated as reference SRP777K1. It measures 44.3 mm in diameter, stays watertight to 200 meters and – thanks to a hardened mineral glass rather than a sapphire crystal – costs only $495. Like every Seiko watch, it’s equipped with one of the brand’s own calibers. In this case (no pun intended), the movement is self-winding Caliber 4R36. The highly elastic, corrugated, urethane strap stretches to slip over the sleeve of a diving suit. Lumibrite luminous material, a Seiko development, glows with uncommon brightness.

Longines HydroConquest

A solidly built Swiss divers’ watch with ETA’s bestselling Caliber 2892, a steel bracelet, a divers’ extension in the bracelet, and a price tag of just $1,000: That’s what we call a favorable price-performance ratio. But those who opt for     41-mm stainless-steel watch will have to make do with an aluminum bezel. The case stays watertight to 300 meters, which is 50 percent deeper than the required 200 meters, but it’s not in the extreme class of pressure resistance offered by some Breitling, IWC, Rolex or Sinn models.

Rolex Sea-Dweller and ROLEX Deepsea

Manufacturers of professional divers’ watches essentially measure their products against these two Rolex models. While the case of its “little sister” (the Submariner) is 12.5-mm slim and can pass as a sporty and elegant dress watch, the approximately 15-mm-thick Sea-Dweller (shown above in the 2017 version) and the whopping 17.7-mm-thick Deepsea are genuine professional instruments. The Sea-Dweller stays watertight to 1,220 meters while the Deepsea keeps its feet dry all the way down to 3,900 meters. Outstanding features of these 43-mm and 44-mm models include Rolex’s special stainless-steel alloy (which is uncommonly resistant to corrosion by seawater), scratch-resistant bezels made from a ceramic developed by Rolex, an automatic manufacture caliber with chronometer certification, helium valves, and folding clasps with intelligently conceived divers’ extensions. The many technical advantages help justify the price: $11,350 for the Sea-Dweller and $12,050 for the DeepseA

Oris Aquis Depth Gauge

Like the ordinary Aquis, this 46-mm special instrument is robustly constructed, watertight to 500 meters, and scratch resistant on its front side, thanks to a ceramic bezel. But this model also provides a unique technical highlight: No other brand offers a watch with a depth gauge quite like this one. When this watch submerges for a dive, water penetrates into a ring-shaped channel along the rim of the sapphire crystal and compresses the air inside the channel. The diving depth can be read on the dial’s periphery at the point where the dark water meets the bright air. Powered by Sellita’s automatic Caliber SW 200, this stainless-steel watch with a rubber strap and additional steel bracelet is delivered inside a watertight carrying case. Each wristband has its own folding clasp with integrated divers’ extension. For this power package with a unique depth gauge, $3,500 isn’t too high a price to pay.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Diver

Audemars Piguet ventures into colorful spheres with last year’s update to the Royal Oak Offshore collection. The most eye-catching versions of this 42-mm-diameter, 300-meter-watertight stainless-steel watch come in bright green, yellow or orange; white and blue versions are also available. Technical strong points in manufacture Caliber 3120 include a longer-than-average 60-hour power reserve, a soft iron inner case to protect against magnetic fields, and an inner rotatable ring that can be turned in both directions via an additional screwed crown. A shortcoming for divers: The rubber wristband has no extension mechanism. A shortcoming for the frugal: The price of this version is $19,900.

Bell & Ross BR 03-92 Diver

Last year, Bell & Ross introduced its first dive watch in the square case shape for which the brand has become renowned: the new BR 03-92 Diver. Its squared ergonomic case, made of satin-polished steel and measuring 42 mm in diameter, is water resistant to 300 meters and houses the automatic BR-Cal.302, based on the Sellita SW 300. Price is $3,700.

Blancpain Fifty Fathoms

Fifty fathoms are equal to 300 feet or nearly 100 meters – the depth to which the original Fifty Fathoms from 1953 remained watertight. The contemporary version of this iconic divers’ watch is watertight to 300 meters and comes with a sapphire crystal that curves above the rotatable bezel. Caliber 1315 amasses a five-day power reserve and is protected against magnetism by a soft iron inner case. The stainless-steel case is 45 mm in diameter. The canvas wristband is water resistant, but its wearer has to make do without an extension mechanism. Divers who appreciate luxury must part with $14,500 to own this watch.

Certina DS Action Diver Automatic

Certina’s entry-level divers’ watch is attractively priced and equally attractively designed. The 43.2-mm-diameter stainless-steel case comes in black or blue; a version with a gray titanium case is also available. Although the steel versions offer a sapphire crystal and a metal bracelet with built-in divers’ extension, they cost just $895. A useful feature: Not only is the zero point luminous, so are all the other indexes on the bezel. The water tightness up to 200 meters satisfies the standard specified for divers’ watches.

Hamilton Khaki Navy Frogman Titanium

Hamilton’s new dive watch is available with dials and bezels in various colors. Notwithstanding its burly 46-mm size, the titanium version is comfortable to wear. From a technical point of view, this model offers lightweight and sturdy titanium in tandem with a special safety mechanism for the crown, a helium valve, and a further evolved descendant of ETA’s Caliber 2824 known as the “H-10.” If left unmoved after it has been fully wound, this new caliber will continue to run for 80 hours rather than the previous span of just 38 hours. The water tightness is quite deep (1,000 meters), but the individually designed rubber strap lacks an extension mechanism. This well-equipped watch retails for the surprisingly low price of $1,445.

Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean Master Chronometer

Omega’s Seamaster family offers divers’ watches in a wide range of designs and in an equally wide range of prices. All of these time-pieces boast professional features and Omega’s own self-winding movements with chronometer-accurate coaxial escapement. A good cost-benefit ratio is provided by the 43.5-mm Seamaster Planet Ocean Master Chronometer: In return for its price of $6,550, divers get an attractively styled watertight steel watch that stays watertight to 600 meters and has a metal bracelet, a helium valve, a ceramic bezel and antimagnetic manufacture Caliber 8900, which relies on two barrels to amass a 60-hour power reserve.

Omega Seamaster Ploprof

The Omega Seamaster Ploprof boasts an even greater number of professional features. The case, which measures 55 mm by 48 mm, is made from lightweight titanium and stays watertight to twice the depth (1,200 meters) of the Planet Ocean. For safety’s sake, the bezel can be rotated only when the diver presses the orange button. When this button is depressed, the bezel can be conveniently reset in both directions. Two easy-to-use divers’ extensions are contained inside the secure folding clasp on the titanium link bracelet. As with the Planet Ocean, innovative protection against magnetic fields is provided by a totally antimagnetic movement (automatic Caliber 8912), so Omega can equip the case with a sapphire back. This companion for professional divers costs $13,800.

Panerai Luminor Submersible 1950 Amagnetic 3 Days Automatic Titanio

With a 47-mm titanium case, ceramic bezel, and protection against magnetic fields, this model is one of the professional dive watches from Panerai. Also worth a mention: inside the watch is the automatic manufacture Caliber P.9010 with temperature-insensitive Glucydur balance and a three-day power reserve. The case stays watertight to 300 meters. The corrugated strap can be stretched to fit over the sleeve of a diving suit. The price is not insignificant: $11,000.

Luminox Deep Dive Automatic Scott Cassell Special Edition

Thanks to hands and indexes that bear tubules filled with tritium gas, this dive-watch leader from the Swiss sports watch brand continues to glow with undiminished intensity for many years, and without having its wearer recharge the luminous indicators at a light source. This watch is also convincing thanks to its water tightness (500 meters), helium valve, and sturdy rubber wristband with an extension piece to facilitate wearing over the sleeve of a thick diving suit. Power is provided by Sellita’s sleekly simple Caliber SW 200, which is fabricated in large series, thus enabling Luminox to offer this watch at the affordable price of $2,200.

Doxa Sub 1500T MKII

The orange-colored Doxa Sub is considered a classic among dive watch enthusiasts. It’s available in various designs and with water tightness to different depths. The model shown here can descend to far-reaching depths: Its stainless-steel case protects Soprod’s self-winding Caliber A10 against incursions by water to a depth of 1,500 meters. The case is 44.7 mm in diameter and is equipped with a helium valve. As on almost all Doxa Sub models, the rotatable bezel is calibrated with a decompression scale. Military frogmen use such scales to read the number of minutes they can stay at a specified depth (measured in feet) without having to pause for a decompression stop during their ascent. An extension piece can be pivoted from the bracelet’s folding clasp. Each of the 1,500 pieces in this limited series sells for an affordable $2,390.

Tag Heuer Aquaracer Caliber 5 Blue Camo

Last year’s Aquaracer update from TAG Heuer came with an “Arctic” blue camouflage pattern and matching NATO strap as well as a water resistance rating of 300 meters. Its 43-mm case is made from Grade 2 titanium with a matte black PVD treatment. The watch is powered by TAG Heuer’s Caliber 5, which is based on the ETA 2824 or the Sellita SW200. The price for this version is $2,800.

 

Flying High: Five Watches with Altimeters

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The function of an altimeter is simple: It measures the altitude of an object above any fixed level, with sea level being the most common point of reference. It is used in a number of activities, from extreme sports like skydiving, to ground-based activities like hiking, climbing, and skiing, but its most prominent usage has always been tied to flight. As many watch enthusiasts are aware, the history of aviation and horology have long been linked through the necessity of a pilot needing to know the time immediately while in the air. Through this, the pilot’s watch has developed over the decades to become the recognizable icon it is today. The flieger triangle at 12 o’clock, the oversized case and crown, and the development of lume have all been tied to catering to a pilot’s needs while in flight so it was only a matter of time before watch brands embraced the altimeter. Here are five brands that have done just that over the past few years. 

Oris Big Crown ProPilot Altimeter

Oris Big Crown ProPilot Altimeter

In 2014, Oris tapped its flight heritage to release the Big Crown ProPilot Altimeter. The watch has two crowns: the crown at 2 o’clock adjusts time and date, while the crown at 4 o’clock operates the altimeter. To activate the altimeter, you must unscrew the second crown into position one, indicated by a red ring. At position 2, the altimeter can be set. Once this is completed, the watch illustrates the altitude through the yellow indicator and the air pressure via the red indicator. The altitude scale is read through the outer dial ring and can measure the altitude up to 15,000 feet. The air pressure scale is located between the altimeter scale and the central dial. The 47-mm watch uses the Oris Caliber 733, which is a modified Sellita SW200 movement. The watch costs $3,800 on a textile strap and $4,100 on a bracelet.

Favre Leuba Bivouac 9000

Favre Leuba Bivouac 9000

Last year, Favre Leuba marked its 280th anniversary with the Bivouac 9000, a mechanical watch that boasts the capability of measuring altitudes up to 9,000 meters (29,527 feet) above sea level. This isn’t exactly new territory for Favre-Leuba, as the Bivouac 9000 is the direct descendant of a 1962 wristwatch the brand released that was the first timepiece that could measure the altitude up to 3,000 meters. The 48-mm titanium case houses an aneroid barometer, which allows the watch to indicate the elevation at a given point by reacting to the changing air pressure surrounding it. The central red altimeter hand indicates altitude gain in 50-meter steps and goes up to 3,000 meters in one rotation. Once the watch has completed three such rotations, you know that you’ve reached an altitude of 9,000 meters The price is CHF 7,500, approximately $8,000 USD.

Casio PRG-650Y-1

Casio PRG-650Y-1

Casio is a popular choice for many daredevils that want extreme functionality without compromising on good looks. Last September, the Japanese brand expanded its Pro-Trek collection to add the PRG650Y-1 and PRG650YBE-3, two new timepieces that include a magnetic sensor for compass readings, a pressure sensor that functions as an altimeter and a thermosensor for temperature. The two analog-digital watches also have stopwatch capabilities, up to five daily alarms, water resistance up to 100 m, a worldtimer, and a countdown timer. This kind of souped-up gadgetry is what Casio is best known for and it doesn’t disappoint here. Both watches are powered by Casio’s Tough Solar Power technology that eliminates the need to change a battery. It’s worth noting that every watch in Casio’s Pro-Trek series includes an altimeter. The PRG650Y-1 is available for $320 and the PRG650YBE-3 for $340.

Citizen Promaster Altichron

Citizen Promaster Altichron

Citizen’s main focus last year was on ultra-rugged watches that spare no expense. Along with a diving watch that can reach a depth of 1,000 m, the Japanese brand introduced the Promaster Altichron which has an altimeter that reaches up to 32,000 feet. Citizen chose to display the time and functions in analog rather than digital form to simplify the information available. The various functions include the altimeter, a compass, a power reserve, and a date window. Like all Eco-Drive watches, the Promaster Altichron is powered by light and it has a rate of plus or minus 15 seconds per month. You can find it for $550.

Bremont U-22

Bremont U-22

It’s no secret that Nick and Giles English, the British founders of Bremont, are quite fond of flying. At Baselworld 2015, the young brand unveiled the U-22, which contained a date window inspired by an altimeter. Yes, this technically doesn’t have a functioning altimeter but it’s a great looking watch that has been flight tested by the brand up to 100,000 feet for over 12 hours in the air and to temperatures as low as -50 degrees. The watch also features a bi-directional rotating bezel that has been altered to form a compass quadrant, often used in weather mapping. The Bremont U-22 uses the COSC-certified caliber 12 ¼ BE-36AE and has a 38-hour power reserve. It costs $5,195.

 

25 Key Moments in the History of Oris Watches

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The Swiss watch brand Oris is well-known for the use of a red winding rotor, which became a trademark of the brand in 2002. It’s a symbol, the brand says, of the passion with which it manufactures mechanical wristwatches. At the same time, it’s a good way to catch the attention of the beholder and a good conversation starter. What else can you tell your watch friends? Discover these 25 milestone moments in the history of Oris watches, from its founding in 1904 to the present day, and you’ll have plenty to discuss.

1904 Oris is founded in Hölstein,  Switzerland, by Paul Cattin and Georges Christian, both from Le Locle. They name the company after a nearby brook.

Oris founder Paul Cattin - 1904

Oris founders Paul Cattin (above) and Georges Christian (below)

Oris founder Georges Christian - 1904

1906 to 1925 The company opens five additional factories in Switzerland.

1910 Oris, with 300 workers, is the largest employer in Hölstein.

Oris factories - 1929

A painting from 1929 shows Oris factories in six Swiss towns.

1927 When Georges Christian dies, Oris is bought by a group of his family’s friends. The watchmaker Jacques-David LeCoultre, grandson of the famed Antoine LeCoultre, becomes president. He is also managing director of LeCoultre and, after that company merges with Edmond Jaeger in 1937, of Jaeger-LeCoultre.

1928 Oscar Herzog, brother-in-law of Georges Christian (and not related to Oris’s current executive chairman, Ulrich Herzog) becomes managing director.

1939 to 1945 During World War II, Oris is better known for its alarm clocks than its wristwatches.

Oris Alarm Clock 1940s

An Oris alarm clock from the 1940s

1952 Oris launches its first automatic watch.

Oris first automatic watch - 1952

The first Oris automatic

1956 Oscar Herzog hires Rolf Portmann and assigns him the task of working to overturn a Swiss law that is preventing Oris from switching from making pin-lever escapements to making more expensive Swiss lever ones. The law, called the Watch Statute, passed in 1934, says no watch company can make such a change without the government’s permission. Oris has been denied permission repeatedly.

1966 After a decade of campaigning to have the Watch Statute reversed, Portmann succeeds, and Oris is allowed to make Swiss lever escapement watches. Its first is the automatic Caliber 645.

1968 Oris is awarded its first chronometer certificate, by the Observatoire Astronomique et Chronométrique in Neuchâtel, for Caliber 652.
1969 Oris reaches the peak of its production, making 1.2 million watches. The company employs 800 people and is one of the 10 largest watch companies in the world.

1970 The company is sold to the Swiss holding company ASUAG (later to merge with another holding company, SSIH, to form what is now the Swatch Group). That same year, Oris introduces its first chronograph, the Chronoris, which is also the first auto-racing-related Oris watch. Later, auto-themed watches would become a pillar of the brand.

Oris Chronoris watch

The Chronoris, Oris’s first chronograph

1982 Rolf Portmann and Ulrich Herzog buy Oris.

1984 The company introduces a watch with center-mounted calendar pointer, based on an Oris watch from 1938. The calendar pointer would become one of the brand’s best-known features.

Mid-’80s Herzog starts shifting Oris’s production away from quartz watches and back to mechanical ones.

1988 Oris launches alarm wristwatches incorporating old A. Schild movements that Herzog has bought.

Oris Alarm Watch - 1988

Oris alarm watch from 1988

1992 The company shifts its production entirely to mechanical watches.

1996 Oris launches a watch in conjunction with saxophonist Andy Sheppard. It is the first watch in the brand’s series of jazz watches. In subsequent years, the company would introduce watches bearing the names of jazz greats Louis Armstrong, Miles Davis, Duke Ellington, Charlie Parker and others.

Oris Andy Sheppard jazz watch

The Andy Sheppard watch, the first of the Oris jazz watches

1997 The company launches the WorldTimer, containing Caliber 690, which lets the wearer adjust the time forward or backward in one-hour jumps using pushers on the side of the case. The watch also has a patented system in which the date jumps backward if the local time is moved back over midnight.

Oris World Timer - 1997

2002 The red winding rotor, used on most of the brand’s automatic watches, becomes a trademarked symbol of Oris.

Oris Red Rotor - 2002

2006 A watch bearing the name of freediver Carlos Coste is introduced. Called the Carlos Coste Limited Edition Chronograph, it’s the first watch in Oris’s Divers collection.

2008 The company launches its BC4 Flight Timer, which tells the time in three time zones, one of which is adjusted using a vertical crown at 2 o’clock.

2013 Oris introduces the Aquis Depth Gauge, which indicates depth by means of a circular channel surrounding the dial. Oris holds a patent on the device: it is the first time such a gauge has been used in a wristwatch.

Oris Aquis Depth Gauge - front

2014 Oris announces that it has launched its first entirely in-house developed movement in 35 years, called Caliber 110 (named for the brand’s 110th anniversary). The new, manual-wound movement, with a 10-day power reserve from a single barrel, makes its debut in the Oris 110 Years Limited Edition watch, available in either a steel ($6,500) or rose-gold ($17,500) case and limited to 110 pieces of each. The brand has followed up Caliber 110 with new in-house movements in the years since, adding a new complication with each new generation.

Oris 110th Anniversary watch

2015: Oris releases the first version of the popular Diver Sixty-Five, a modern reissue of a classic Oris dive watch released 50 years ago. The 1965 model had a chromium-plated brass case and plexiglas crystal, a bidirectional rotating bezel, and a black plastic strap, while the new version has a more contemporary 40-mm case in corrosion-resistant stainless steel; a scratch-resistant, nonreflective sapphire crystal with a “bubble-curved” shape; and a safer (for diving) unidirectional bezel. The bezel is enhanced with a black aluminum inlay, and the hands and indices (filled with tritium on the original model) are filled with a type of Super-LumiNova called “Light Old Radium” with a beige glow. The steel caseback is engraved with the same historical Oris emblem found on the original’s. (For a hands-on review of the Oris Diver Sixty-Five, click here.)

Oris Diver Sixty-Five - front

This article was originally published in 2013 and has been updated with additional material.

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Living Time: 5 Watches Created With Natural Materials

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We live in an era of cool, digital timekeeping. Our workdays are defined by electronic objects made from metal and plastic. Asphalt, glass, steel, and concrete surround us in our cities. No wonder we yearn for something different — for warm colors, materials from living sources, wood grain, textured leather and textiles; for the look of lifelike materials such as bronze, which changes over time and acquires a unique patina. Bronze also recalls the pre-industrial era and ships, which — despite the simplicity of their navigational tools — helped us discover and explore entire continents. In this feature from WatchTime’s Special Design Issue 2017, we present several watches created using natural materials.

1. Fine Leather: Hublot Classic Fusion Berluti Scritto

Hublot Classic Fusion Berluti Scritto

Hublot Classic Fusion Berluti Scritto

Hublot collaborated with renowned luxury shoemaker Berluti to create the Classic Fusion Berluti Scritto. This watch combines two of the most distinctive features of the French leather specialist: Venezia calfskin with its signature light-to-dark tones and script originating from 18th-century calligraphy. Because leather is a living material it must undergo special treatment to inhibit moisture that would affect the movement inside the airtight case. Hublot’s proprietary King Gold is a perfect complement to the “tobacco” leather dial. The watch is powered by automatic Caliber HUB1100, which is based on a Sellita SW 300. This model is limited to 250 pieces and is priced at $29,400.

2. Bronze Diving Helmets: Oris Carl Brashear Limited Edition

Oris Carl Brashear Limited Edition

Oris Carl Brashear Limited Edition

Oris dedicates its bronze dive watch to Carl Brashear, who in 1948 became the first African-American U.S. Navy diver. And he was the first soldier who continued working as a diver despite the amputation of his leg. The watch’s 42-mm bronze case recalls old diving helmets, which were still made of this material in the 1950s. The unidirectional rotating bezel and the clasp on the leather strap are also made of bronze and acquire its distinctive patina. The brown leather strap and dark blue dial, combined with the bronze metal, provide an interesting color combination. The automatic Sellita SW 200 movement powers the watch. The 2,000-piece Carl Brashear Limited Edition costs $2,800.

3. Bronze and Military Textile: Tudor Heritage Black Bay Bronze

Tudor Heritage Black Bay Bronze

Tudor Heritage Black Bay Bronze

Tudor equips its Heritage Black Bay Bronze with a case made of aluminum bronze that quickly acquires an attractive, aged patina. It is resistant to salt water and is ideal for use as a dive watch. The bezel and dial are rendered in a coordinating brown tone. This dive watch has an olive-green and khaki textile strap, completing the retro-military look. The French marines used a similar strap for their Tudor dive watches. An in-house caliber MT5601 with automatic winding continues to run for 70 hours without additional power, and is tested and certified by COSC. This 43-mm bronze watch costs $3,975. It comes with an additional aged-leather strap.

4. Ship’s Clocks of Wood and Bronze: Bell & Ross BR 01 Instrument de Marine

Bell & Ross BR01 Instrument Marine

Bell & Ross BR01 Instrument de Marine

Bell & Ross found inspiration for its BR 01 Instrument de Marine watch in the marine chronometers of the 18th and 19th centuries. It’s not just the dial that recalls a ship’s clocks, but also the bronze case and the square frame made from Indian rosewood. This precious wood is hard and durable and presents a har-monic color composition alongside the bronze case and brown crocodile strap. The watch is powered by hand-wound Caliber 203, which is based on a Unitas 6498. Bell & Ross offers 500 pieces of the BR 01 Instrument de Marine, each priced at $8,700.

6. Wood Dashboards: Ralph Lauren’s Automotive Skeleton

Ralph Lauren Automotive Skeleton

Ralph Lauren Automotive Skeleton

Ralph Lauren’s Automotive Skeleton combines a black bead-blasted case with a bezel made of amboyna wood. This special hardwood comes from an Asian evergreen tree and is often used for musical instruments because of its beautiful grain. This natural material makes each watch unique. Company founder Ralph Lauren owns a black Bugatti Type 57 SC Atlantic Coupe from 1938, and the materials and color of its dashboard inspired the look of this watch. The blackened and skeletonized hand-wound Caliber RL1967 is based on an IWC proprietary movement. The 45-mm watch is priced at $50,000.

In our 2017 Design Issue we presented even more special watches, including models inspired by tattoo art and high fashion. Get the 2017 Design Issue in our online shop and discover these and many other avante-garde timepieces.

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Vintage Eye for the Modern Guy: Oris ChronOris Date

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Oris has been a steady fan favorite in the modern era, with much of recent attention stemming from its 2015 release of the Diver Sixty-Five. This watch, based on a 1965 dive watch by the brand, accomplished something few other vintage-inspired pieces have been able to do: be better than the original. To its benefit, the brand had history on its side; for the most part, vintage Oris watches have been deemed by the market as less-than-timeless, so the balancing act other brands face — channeling for the contemporary market a beautiful, historical model while changing enough not to make it an exact replica — was tossed out the window. Oris doesn’t need to balance its designs or re-create some mythic past down to the lug; it simply needs to keep creating, enjoying the modern renaissance with vintage-inspired designs, and producing affordable, crowd-favorite watches all the while.

Oris Chronoris - Vintage

With this said, the brand has kept creating, and in the wake of the Diver Sixty-Five has been steadily releasing new vintage-inspired pieces each year. In 2017, one of these watches was the ChronOris Date (below), a fascinating piece based on a 1970 stop-seconds chronograph with a similar name (it was simply the ChronOris, vintage model pictured above). The vintage piece was the very first chronograph produced by the brand all those years ago, with a design that could not have been born in any time but the 1970s. With a tonneau (“tortoise shell”) case, orange, white, and black accents, rotating inner seconds bezel, and 60-second chronograph, the watch was weird yet very representative of 1970s horology.

Oris Chronoris on strap - soldier

The new ChronOris echoes this era, but does so in a way that is distinguishably crisp. The watch uses a 39-mm tonneau case with sloping, radially brushed edges and polished sides, featuring a non-screw-down crown at the 2 o’clock position for time adjustment, and a screw-down crown at 4 o’clock used to rotate the internal bezel. The dial comes in two different color schemes, differing only in one’s use of an all-black design and the other hosting a mostly gray design using a large black ring outlining the center sector; both feature orange accents throughout. The rest of the details are the same, with an inner rotating bezel which satisfyingly clicks for each turn it makes (for a total of 120 times), an outer minute track just inside of it with printed SuperLuminova-filled hour marks, and an outlined date indicator at 3 o’clock.

Oris Chronoris on bracelet - angle

In the center of the dial is a large Oris corporate logo toward the top and “ChronOris/26 jewels” toward the bottom. The dial has white, baton-shaped, SuperLuminova-filled hour and minute hands, and a chronograph-inspired orange seconds hand; the hands are powered by the automatic Oris 733 movement, which uses a Sellita SW 200-1 base caliber and holds a 38-hour power reserve. The ChronOris is currently listed by the brand at $1,750.

Oris Chronoris - NATO strap - reclining

The differences between the modern ChronOris Date and the vintage model are many. The original watch distinguished itself as the brand’s first chronograph, and was outfitted with a tachymeter, single-pump pusher on its side, and a thick movement inside to power the multifunctional mechanism. In contrast, the modern variation has done away with the 60-seconds timer and its pusher (while keeping the chronograph-style seconds hand) and also removed the tachymetric scale to ensure a cleaner look throughout the watch. The color schemes for both of the modern pieces are also quite different: while the black dial model does stay consistent with the original, it lacks the vintage-style white and orange inner rotating bezel to complete the look. And while the gray-dial model is quite handsome and seems to channel the funky influences of the 1970s, the original ChronOris did not come in this color scheme. A few more subtle changes are seen in the vintage model’s sword hands compared to modern one’s baton hands, the small applied markers on the historic model compared to the contemporary watch’s printed ones, and in the differently positioned crowns, each quite modernized in their design.

Oris Chronoris on NATO - flat

However, for all the differences, the modern watch still obviously evokes the era from which it draws its design, and retains many critical features found on its predecessor. Notably, the 39-mm tonneau case is virtually identical to the original with the exception of the finishing; the inner bezel remains a prominent feature, as does the black and orange accenting; and the chronograph seconds hand— although it lacks its old function—has the same design. The brand took an obvious effort to channel the general ethos of the original watch, and with the exception of the chronograph function kept all of the key elements.

Oris Chronoris - leather strap, reclining

The modern ChronOris, like the Diver Sixty-Five that preceded it in this era of vintage revival, is less “historically accurate” as “loosely historically inspired.” The original piece from the 1970s helped the brand find a foot in the door in motorsport watches, but that it was clunky, crowded, and somewhat limited in functionality are traits plain to see. It was thus to Oris’s credit that it re-crafted the model with a fair amount of ‘70s flair but incorporated into a design that will outlast the decade. The ChronOris now reminds me quite a bit of another 1970s 60-second chronograph, the Omega Chronostop (pictured below) — a piece that, like the original ChronOris, was geared toward young motorsport drivers and which remains today a clean, relatively cheap, and funky chronograph in Omega’s often stately collection of watches. Nonetheless, the Oris ChronOris is distinctive in its own right, and with its style and price represents a good value for any watch lover looking for something unlikely to be spotted too often on another’s wrist.

Omega ChronoStop - vintage

For the most recent article in the “Vintage Eye” series, in which we compare the Mido Vintage Multifort Datometer Limited Edition to its historical predecessor, click here.

Caleb Anderson is a freelance writer with a primary focus on vintage watches. Since first learning about horology, he has garnered extensive knowledge in the field and spends much of his time sharing his opinions among other writers, collectors, and dealers. Currently located near New York City, he is a persistent student in all things historical, a writer on many topics, and a casual runner.

Living With Bronze, Part 1: Choosing the Right Bronze Watch

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Today, we’re launching the first of a three-part series on bronze watches by contributing writer Justin Mastine-Frost. This weekly column will address the various aspects of owning and caring for a bronze watch that extends beyond the obvious passion for patina. Topics covered will include the pros and cons of aging the material naturally versus with chemicals and what you need to successfully clean the metal. First up? A look at why bronze has risen to such immense popularity over the past decade and what you should look for when you’re thinking about purchasing your first bronze watch.

There’s no arguing that there has been an unrivaled boom of bronze in recent years – ushering in what one could only call a new “Bronze Age” in watchmaking. In part fueled by a growing love of unique and individualized timepieces, and in part by the enthusiast community on Instagram, bronze has rapidly become the new “it” metal – especially in the more approachable end of the luxury watch industry. The metal’s transformative properties run contrary to anything else in the market, having the ability to age over time, and depending on the alloy composition, the end result can vary significantly from one watch model to the next. While some will want to maintain that crisp bright bronze color as factory-fresh as possible, others are quick to find ways to force the aging process, giving their bronze watches the appearance of having spent years on the ocean floor. Much as we’ve talked about many of the beautiful bronze beasts to hit the market in recent years, we’ve yet to delve into what is really entailed when it comes to the day-to-day life of bronze watch ownership.

 

Montblanc Geosphere 1858 bronze

Montblanc is no stranger to bronze watches, and its latest releases at SIHH in January 2018 included this smart 1858 Geosphere in a dive-style case, alongside a few more bronze additions to the collection.

A Sea of Options 

With the ongoing growth in the category, watch enthusiasts are anything but short on options for bronze watches. Initially, a category reserved for dive watches, the past year has seen bronze (or bronze and steel) offerings surface from Montblanc in the form of the 1858 Automatic, 1858 Automatic Geosphere, and 1858 Chronograph Tachymeter Limited Edition that are anything but dive-ready tool watches. These dressier offerings were a welcome change of pace, especially in the case of the Chronograph Tachymeter – the beloved monopusher chrono powered by Montblanc’s hand-wound Minerva Manufacture Calibre MB M16.29.

The Montblanc 1858 Automatic Chronograph in bronze.

When it comes to bronze divers, the category also continues to grow. After the immense success of the Oris Carl Brashear diver, whose limited production run of only 2,000 pieces sold out well before the year came to a close, Oris unveiled its successor in the form of a diver chronograph this past January worthy of equal levels of praise. Only slightly larger in diameter than its sibling (43 mm instead of 42 mm for the three-hand version), it features the same vintage-style domed sapphire crystal, as well as a handsome one-piece rotating bezel that uses a mix of engraved and relief indexes.

The Oris Carl Brashear Chronograph Limited Edition

On the more obscure end of the spectrum, Mühle Glashütte also opted for bronze to commemorate the 15th anniversary of the brand’s SAR Rescue Timer in 2017. Fitted with a fully luminous dial, and contrasted by its trademark rubberized bezel and a DLC-coated crown, the new model is offered on an olive drab Bund strap and has been limited to a very scarce 150 pieces worldwide.

Panerai PAM00382 - Case CU

Panerai launched its first bronze watch, the Panerai Luminor Submersible 1950 3 Days Automatic Bronzo, as a limited edition in 2011.

Of course, the big news in the category that ruffled a fair number of feathers in the collecting community was the arrival of another Bronzo from Panerai in the form of the PAM 671 Luminor Submersible 1950 3 Days Automatic Bronzo. Panerai’s original Bronzo (the PAM 382) from 2011 and the PAM 507 that followed in 2013 have long been two of most sought-after modern Panerais on the planet, and many Paneristi were once again furious with the brand for launching a third version, thus (in their eyes) making the originals less collectible in the long run. Coming at it from the industry side of the table, in a market as challenging as all the luxury brands have had to navigate in recent years, and considering the success of the first examples, launching the PAM 671 was simply a no-brainer, and being a limited edition model (1,000 pieces), shouldn’t have a truly catastrophic impact on overall collectability.

Panerai: New Luminor Bronzo

The PAM 671 Luminor Submersible 1950 3 Days Automatic Bronzo from 2017.


A Tale of Alloys –
Where Percentages Make All the Difference

While it’s easier to say that “bronze is bronze” in some respects, a quick glance at the wide variety of bronze watches on the market will quickly reveal some significant variance from one model to the next. More often than not, watchmakers are using what is referred to as an aluminum bronze alloy. Now bronze on its own is primarily made of copper, and a wide variety of other metals can be folded into the equation in varying percentages. In most cases, the ingredient added is tin, but arsenic, phosphorus, aluminum, manganese, and silicon can also be used to produce different properties in the material.

Tudor Heritage Black Bay Bronze

Tudor Heritage Black Bay Bronze

In the case of watchmaking, where corrosion and deterioration are concerns, aluminum bronze is most often the weapon of choice, though even within this specific alloy we see some variance. A maximum of 6 percent iron and 6 percent nickel are permitted, however the percentage of aluminum can vary, somewhere in the spectrum of 6-12 percent. Generally speaking, a higher aluminum content presents a slightly cooler gray hue in the bronze whereas a lower percentage allows the warm copper tones to become more prevalent. Looking at the latest swath of releases, we can easily speculate that the Tudor Black Bay Bronze carries a higher percentage of aluminum and other metals, whereas the Oris Carl Brashear Chronograph would be on the lower end of the spectrum. That said, no watch brands at this stage have been willing to release data on what their ideal bronze formula actually is.

This Oris Carl Brashear has seen a variety of forced patina treatments at the hands of its owner Stark Shapleigh, including ammonia fuming and exposure to saltwater.

As many may have noticed, effectively every bronze watch on the market uses a caseback made of either stainless steel, titanium, or in some cases, an exhibition caseback. The need for this is twofold. The copper in the alloy has a tendency to react to the moisture in human skin, creating that green substance on the surface of the metal (copper chloride) and turning both the metal and your skin green. Not only is this less than pleasant from a visual perspective, but prolonged exposure to copper chloride generally isn’t good for your health and is better off avoided when possible.

All text by Justin Mastine-Frost.

Next week: Toying with the Aging Process – To Force Change vs. Aging Gracefully

7 Modern Watches Inspired by Historical Pieces

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The vintage-look trend that has been so prevalent in the watch world in recent years has showed no signs of abating. Modern re-editions of historical pieces continue to emerge from some of the most venerable watch brands. Here are just seven notable examples of “vintage-inspired” watches launched in recent years.

1. Omega Globemaster

Omega Globemaster - blue dial - front

Omega Globemaster

The Omega Globemaster — the first watch to receive the brand’s “Master Chronometer” certification — is technically a new model in the Omega portfolio, but it gets its design cues from earlier models: the “pie pan” dial echoes that of a vintage Omega Constellation from 1952; and the fluted bezel is derived from that of another Constellation model from 1968. The 39-mm case (available in stainless steel, yellow gold, two-tone steel and yellow gold, and Omega’s proprietary Sedna gold) has a brushed finish, with two polished bevels connecting the edges of the lugs to the bezel. The top ridges of the fluted bezel have a smoothed finish. The “Master Chronometer” movement, Caliber 8900, meets not only the strict precision requirements of Swiss testing agency COSC, but additional standards established by Omega and METAS, the Swiss Federal Institute of Metrology, which include functioning while exposed to magnetic fields up to 15,000 Gauss. Click here for more details on the Omega Globemaster.

2. Tudor North Flag

TUDOR NORTH FLAG - front

Tudor North Flag

The Tudor North Flag derives its name and design inspiration from the British North Greenland Expedition in the early 1950s, in which members of the expedition team wore circa-1952 Tudor Oyster Prince models. These “tool watches” were instrumental in carrying out this exploratory mission to some of the earth’s harshest climatic conditions. The North Flag owes some of its “scientific equipment” look to these early watches: a satin-brushed steel case (40 mm in diameter) with ergonomic curves, highlighted by a bezel composed of matte ceramic on one side and brushed steel on the other, along with a conical winding crown that screws down for a 100-meter water resistance. The caseback features a sapphire window through which one can view the movement, automatic Caliber MT5621, which also happens to be the brand’s first in-house-made movement. Click here for more on the Tudor North Flag.

3. Breitling Transocean Chronograph 1915

Breitling Transocean Chronograph 1915 Soldier strap 560

Breitling Transocean Chronograph 1915

The Breitling Transocean Chronograph 1915 marks the 100th anniversary of a major design innovation that we too often take for granted on contemporary chronographs. In the early 20th century, all chronographs were monopushers, with the controls for starting, stopping, and returning the timer to zero all placed in the crown. In 1915, Gaston Breitling, son of founder Léon Breitling, designed a timing watch with a separate pusher to control the start, stop and reset functions. He placed it on the side of the case at 2 o’clock, just above the crown. The 2 o’clock positioning would soon become standard, as it was easy to reach and control on the wrist. This limited edition watch plays off of these roots, updating them for a dial and case design in keeping with the Transocean collection. An angled pusher sits at 2 o’clock, above the fluted crown. The silvered dial has a bicompax display: a small-seconds subdial is at 9 o’clock and a 30-minute counter at 3 o’clock. The watch is fitted with an all-new manufacture movement, Caliber B14, which is manually wound and Chronometer-certified by COSC. (For more on the Breitling Transocean Chronograph 1915, click here.)

4. Longines Pulsometer Chronograph

Longines Pulsometer Chronograph

Longines Pulsometer Chronograph

A watch from the 1920s provided the template for the Longines Pulsometer Chronograph, a timepiece whose primary function was intended for use by medical professionals. The so-called “doctor’s watch” has a pulsometric scale printed in red around the periphery of the lacquered, white dial. Used in conjunction with the sweeping chronograph hand (which is operated by a monopusher in the crown), the scale enables the wearer to measure one’s heartbeat in a simple and reliable manner. The 40-mm steel case has a sapphire crystal in the front and back and contains the Longines-exclusive L788.2 movement, developed by ETA, which is outfitted with a column-wheel chronograph and holds a power reserve of 54 hours.

5. Patek Philippe Calatrava Pilot Travel Time Ref. 5524

Patek Philippe Ref. 5524 - soldier

As many watch enthusiasts are aware, Patek Philippe has a long history in world-time watches, developing its first “Heure Universelle” timepieces with famous watchmaker Louis Cottier, in 1930 and awarded a patent for its original “Travel Time” mechanism in 1959. What fewer may know is that the brand also has a history in aviation, developing notable “siderometer” (or “hour angle”) wristwatches back in the early days of flight, two of which are now on display in Patek’s museum in Geneva and serve as the inspiration for the Patek Philippe Calatrava Pilot Travel Time Ref. 5524. This very unconventional Patek watch has the look of an early-20th-century pilots’ watch (albeit one in a white-gold case) and is equipped with Patek’s Caliber 324 S C FUS, with an easy-to-use and aviator-friendly second-time-zone function. Aesthetic touches include the dark navy blue dial, inspired by the body paint of 1930s American fighter planes, and the vintage brown calfskin leather strap with contrast top-stitching, reminiscent of the leather belts worn by 1930s pilots. (Click here for more on the Calatrava Pilot Travel Time.)

6. Seiko Grand Seiko 62GS

Seiko Grand Seiko 62GS - steel

The Seiko Grand Seiko 62GS is based upon the very first Grand Seiko watch with an automatic movement, released in 1967. Following up on the previous two Grand Seiko Historical Collection releases — the re-imagined 44GS in 2013 and the 1964 “Self Dater” last year — the recreation of the 62GS is highly reminiscent of the original, which fans of the brand fondly remember for its mirrored, multi-sided case (achieved with Seiko’s “Zaratsu polishing”); large “bezel free” dial opening; long, sharply edged hands typical of the Grand Seiko line; and recessed crown at 4 o’clock, a clever means to convey to the watch’s owner that hand-winding was not required. It is powered by Seiko’s mechanical Caliber 9S65, with automatic winding and a 72-hour power reserve. Inherited features from the original watch include the lion emblem on the caseback and “Diashock” logo (referring to Seiko’s shock protection technology) on the dial. (For more on the 62GS, along with other versions of it, click here.)

7. Oris Diver Sixty-Five

Oris Diver 65The Oris Diver Sixty-Five revives the look of an Oris dive watch released 50 years ago and gives it a 21st century makeover. The 1965 model had a chromium-plated brass case and plexiglas crystal, a bidirectional rotating bezel, and a black plastic strap, while the new version has a larger, more contemporary 40-mm case in corrosion-resistant stainless steel; a scratch-resistant, nonreflective sapphire crystal with a “bubble-curved” shape; and a safer (for diving) unidirectional bezel. The bezel of the Diver Sixty-Five is enhanced with a very of-the-moment black aluminum inlay, and the hands and indices (filled with tritium on the original model) are filled with a type of Super-LumiNova called “Light Old Radium” whose beige glow contrasts nicely with the black dial in the dark. The steel caseback is engraved with the same historical Oris emblem found on the original’s, the crown screws down to ensure a water-resistance to 100 meters, and the modern version is available on a black textile NATO strap and steel bracelet as well as a rubber strap. The movement is Oris’s automatic Caliber 733, which is based on a Sellita SW200. (For a hands-on review of the Oris Diver Sixty-Five, click here.)

This article was originally published in 2015 and has been updated.

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A Hands-On Review of the Oris Big Crown ProPilot Worldtimer

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A second time zone indicator ranks among the most useful watch complications, and not just for pilots and other people who fly frequently. But not all of these time-zone displays operate intuitively. They often have a 24-hour hand that can be reset in single- hour increments via the crown, but a watch of this kind may be better suited for frequent long-distance callers than for frequent flyers because when you’re spending time in a foreign country, you want to be able to read the local time from the ordinary hour hand in 12-hour format. If the central hour hand is adjustable in full- hour steps, you still need to pull out the crown first – and if you mistakenly pull the crown into the wrong position, you run the risk of setting the time incorrectly or temporarily stopping the watch.

Oris addressed this problem in 1997 and created the Worldtimer, a watch that lets its wearer operate two push-pieces to reset the local hour either forward or backward in full-hour increments. Even the date display automatically switches in both directions to show either the next date or the preceding date.

The Oris Big Crown ProPilot Worldtimer

The Oris Big Crown ProPilot Worldtimer perfects the concept because the bezel now takes over the function formerly performed by somewhat bulky-looking push- pieces. Spiraling lines, like a turbine’s blades, cover this rotatable ring and give the bezel a non-slip surface that makes it easier to turn. A quick clockwise twist overcomes a spring’s resistance and triggers the ordinary hour hand for the local time to leap ahead one hour; a counterclockwise turn makes the same hand jump back an hour. This functions very well, although the user must exert a bit more force than expected. A practical detail: the date display automatically switches either forward or backward when the hour hand passes midnight. The subdial at 3 o’clock shows the time in the wearer’s home time zone. The day-night display occupies a little window here: if the aperture is orange, it’s OK to phone home; if it’s black, your family is probably asleep.

Otherwise, you operate this Oris like an ordinary wristwatch. If you pull the large crown into its first position, you can easily reset the home time (and simultaneously the local time); if you pull the winding button farther outward into its second position, you can speedily correct the date.

Oris Big Crown ProPilot Worldtimer - bracelet

Oris Big Crown ProPilot Worldtimer on bracelet

The complexity of the construction of the ProPilot Worldtimer’s case, in which the bezel operates the inner push-piece, isn’t visible from the outside. The height remains slim (13.5 mm), the diameter (44.7 mm) doesn’t look at all exaggerated, and the bezel makes a somewhat narrow impression. No crevice or other gap suggests that this ring can be rotated. All in all, Oris has designed and built a very solid and tidily crafted case.

Legibility is especially important for a pilots’ watch, which prompts us to ask: How well does the Oris perform in this crucial area? The curved sapphire crystal is anti-reflective on its underside, but it still reflects some light. Fortunately, the bold contrast between the hands and the dial assures that the time remains easy to read both day and night. The time in the second time zone isn’t quite as easy to read because the central hands pass over that subdial. The good news: this display is designed like an ordinary 12-hour dial with its own minutes hand, so it can be read intuitively and is a praiseworthy exception among watches that show the time in a second time zone. The date display is rather small, and it also must contend with the hands, four of which rotate above it and may at times cover it.

A clever arrangement results in a tidy dial with numerals that remain uncropped by other indicators. The inset subdials and the light orange accents go well with the matte black dial. The handsome, no-frills, pilots’ watch design continues on the satin-finished case with turbine spirals on the bezel and ends in the black textile wristband with a folding clasp reminiscent of the buckles on the seatbelts in airplanes.

The clasp not only looks like a seat- belt buckle, it also works the same way, which contributes to its user-friendliness and ease of operation. First, like its airborne counterpart raising the part of the clasp labeled “Lift” opens the clasp, which otherwise stays closed. Second, a clamp mechanism varies the length of the wristband. This allows the wearer to precisely and quickly adjust the band’s length to accommodate any changes in the wrist’s thickness. The wristband feels rather stiff at first, but it becomes more flexible after a few days.

A window of mineral glass in the caseback reveals the basic caliber (ETA 2836), which looks somewhat small compared to the size of the case. Functionality takes precedence over embellishment here, although Oris’s trademark – a red rotor – swings back and forth above the movement.

Range and flight speed are important characteristics in aviation. With a 38-hour power reserve (not including transfusions of energy from the motions of the wearer’s wrist), this Oris is in the usual range for watches encasing standard movements. The precision is satisfactory, too: we measured an average daily gain of 5.5 seconds.

The sophisticated adjustment mechanism for the time zone is complex and leads to a somewhat higher retail price than Oris charges for its simpler models, which are also appreciated for their affordability. But $3,600 is still a very fair price to pay in return for all you get. A comparable, practical second time zone watch can cost significantly more money elsewhere. If you like the styling but can make do without a second time zone, $1,550 will buy you the Big Crown ProPilot Date. And if it’s too sporty for your tastes, you can choose the more elegant variation with an anthracite-colored dial and polished bezel: this model also goes well with a business suit.

The Oris Big Crown ProPilot is the perfect companion for air travelers. It combines a practical and user-friendly second time zone, good legibility, down-to-earth pricing, and a handsome no-frills design.

Living with Bronze, Part 2: Toying with the Aging Process 

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This is the second article in a three-part series on bronze watches by contributing writer Justin Mastine-Frost. This weekly column addresses the various aspects of owning and caring for a bronze watch that extends beyond the obvious passion for patina. Today’s topic focuses on the pros and cons of aging bronze naturally versus with chemicals.

As mentioned in part one of this series, one of the more desirable traits of any bronze watch is how the metal will patina with age. Again, depending on composition, and sometimes depending on whether or not a manufacturer has applied some sort of protective coating to the metal, certain bronze watches will inherently age faster than others. Once again, the Carl Brashear models from Oris seem by far the quickest to start turning darker and more muted, though the offerings from Tudor, Panerai, and Montblanc do not seem to trail too far behind. Exposure to moisture in the air, saltwater, and general shifts in climate will all assist in letting your bronze watch evolve day by day, but as many fans of the metal have discovered, there are a number of tricks out there that can assist in significantly expediting the process.

Fuming

Innumerable hours of vinegar fuming led to this interesting and very uneven pattern on the Zodiac Super Sea-Wolf 68, whose case was initially a very light yellow with a micro-blasted finish. Credit: Justin Mastine-Frost

Exposing bronze to certain chemical fumes (some more hazardous than others) over an 8-24 hour period will significantly impact the coloration of any bronze watch. For those looking for an easy solution around the house, any type of vinegar — white vinegar, apple cider vinegar or others – is the most likely candidate you’ll come across. Alternatively, ammonia is an equal, if not slightly more effective, option. To start the process, place the watch in a sealable container, raised up off the bottom, and add in your liquid of choice without getting the watch itself wet (remove its strap before beginning this process). The goal is to seal the watch in the container with the fumes, without it coming in physical contact with the liquid. Setting the container aside, the first few hours will be like waiting for a kettle to boil – little to no change will take place. As time goes on, the fumes will start working their magic, and before long your shiny bronze beast will start to take on a darker appearance. In the case of the Zodiac Super Sea Wolf seen above, an external coating meant that the vinegar fuming process would take far longer than normal, with this result coming after three subsequent days of 24-hour fuming sessions. When attempting these longer periods, intermittent cleaning with hot water and a cloth will help ensure a more consistent pattern of patina.

Liver of Sulfur

For comparison, the elegant and even patina of this Panerai is something that has naturally progressed at the hands of its owner, Hisham Mardam-Bey.

Using liver of sulfur to force patina has both benefits and pitfalls, but much like vinegar fuming, it can yield some pretty interesting results. Unlike fuming, which takes more of a “set it and forget it” approach, liver of sulfur acts much quicker and requires a certain level of attentiveness to execute properly. Though available in many forms, a liver of sulfur gel has proven the simplest and most efficient. In preparation for the aging process, two small bowls need to be prepared: one with a couple of cups of water in which to mix a small dab of liver of sulfur gel, and a second with a similar volume of water with a couple of tablespoons of baking soda mixed in. The use of rubber gloves is recommended throughout this process. After cleaning the watch head under warm water, gently submerge it into the bowl of water and liquid sulfur. Once submerged, the bronze will start to change color fairly rapidly, and even once removed from the liquid the shift will continue. As soon as the desired darkness is achieved, place the watch into the bath of water and baking soda to once again stabilize the metal. In speaking with fellow enthusiasts who have attempted this approach, performing repeated short cycles of this technique to slowly darken a bronze watch is your best shot at achieving the right level of patina, rather than “going for gold” on a first attempt. That said, there is, thankfully, always a way to hit the reset button.

Next week: Cleaning and Maintenance

All text by Justin Mastine-Frost.

You can read Part 1 on what to look for when buying a bronze watch here.

Borrowed Time: Oris Aquis Chronograph

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Oris’s Aquis collection of professional-grade divers’ watches has grown to encompass a variety of limited editions devoted to marine conservation and preservation causes (i.e., 2017’s Hammerhead), a handful of small complications like big dates and small seconds, and notably, an innovative mechanical depth gauge. At this year’s Baselworld, the Holstein-based brand added a chronograph to the lineup. It was a timepiece that instantly caught my eye and, as of a few weeks ago, found its way to my wrist for some review time.  Here are my impressions of the Oris Aquis Chronograph.

Oris Aquis Chronograph -Front - reclining

The Oris Aquis Chronograph is the latest addition to the professional-grade divers’ watch series.

To begin, as per usual, with the case, it needs to be stated up front: this is a monster of a timepiece from a size standpoint, and in profile, it suitably brings to mind a submersible of some kind. At 45.5 mm in diameter it’s got the heft you’d expect of a steel watch of this girth; the wrist presence is impressive and not at all subtle. And yet, it never strained against any of my shirt cuffs and never felt like it was dragging my forearm down; maybe it’s the rubber strap, maybe it’s how that convex curved caseback nestles oh-so-naturally into the subtle indentation of the wrist, but once you start wearing this watch, it begins to feel like a part of you.

Oris Aquis Chronograph -Front - Front

The stainless steel case measures 45.5 mm in diameter.

The unidirectional rotating divers’ bezel ratchets smoothly and audibly to set dive times (or any types of timing intervals, really) and is extremely easy to grip — though admittedly I did not attempt to do so whilst wearing diving gloves or any other type of thick gloves. The black unidirectional rotating bezel insert has a gleaming, polished finish that makes it appear as if it’s an extension of the subtly convex sapphire crystal (and also, in some lighting conditions, can look like a dark blue extension of the dial). Indices for the first 15 minutes of dive time, Arabic numerals at the 10’s, and indices at the 5’s, are all etched in white into the insert, which is made of ceramic. Orientation in the dark depths is provided by the inverted triangle at 12 o’clock and its Super-LumiNova-coated dot. Only at the tail end of my review period did it occur to me that perhaps a more matte finish to the bezel would have been more preferable, and perhaps more utilitarian for a diver. At this point we don’t know, but I appreciated the touch of luxury that the polished finish lent the piece.

Oris Aquis Chronograph - side

The ratcheted edge of the rotating bezel is easy to grasp and turn.

The attractive, maritime blue dial manages to look complex and busy while still being eminently legible in all conditions. Super-LumiNova coats the large, wedge-shaped hour hand, the long, tapered, lance-like minute hand, and the applied hour markers (with single dot at 6 o’clock, and double dot at 12 o’clock). The contrast with the dark blue dial is stark; and as we know, legibility is goal number one of a professional dive watch.

Oris Aquis Chronograph - dial indices

The hands and indices are big, ultra-legible, and coated with Super-LumiNova.

The subdials are slightly recessed from the main dial, in a slightly less vibrant shade of blue, and with white0numbered and marked scales surrounding a snailed center. Stacked at 12, 9, and 6 o’clock, they convey the readouts of chronograph’s elapsed minutes (up to 30), the running seconds (with an unusual two-sided hand), and elapsed hours (up to 12); a thin rectangular date window is ensconced inside the borders of the hours subdial.

Oris_Oris Aquis Chronograph - Subdial

A subtle snailed finish decorates the recessed subdials.

Operating the chronograph is a tactile joy. The pushers are rounded and respond instantly to soft but deliberate pressure from a fingertip. The central chronograph hand is also tipped with lume, so it’s easy to see in the dark as it races around the dial. The screw-down crown — which helps ensure this titanic timepiece’s impressive water-resistance to 500 meters also known as 50 bar; both are indicated on the dial) — pulls out to two positions, the first to quick-advance the date, the second to set the hours and minutes. Like the bezel, the crown, which is graced with an Oris logo on the top, is notched for easy gripping.

Oris Aquis Chronograph - Crown

The notched crown has a relief Oris logo.

Behind the solid steel caseback, which is screwed down and engraved with Oris’s classical crest and a meters-to-feet conversion table, beats the movement, Oris Caliber 774, which uses a Sellita SW500 as its base and features the typical Oris refinements, including the hallmark red winding rotor, though it is, of course, hidden from view in this particular case configuration. The automatic winding movement has 25 jewels, a 28,800-vph frequency, and a 48-hour power reserve.

Oris Aquis Chronograph - caseback

The caseback features an engraved meters-to-feet scale.

The watch, suitably comes on a very sporty strap, made of black rubber and attached to the lugs by screws. The closure is a steel folding clasp and it includes a diver’s extension that allows the wearer to tighten or loosen the watch by nearly half an inch. This was the first time I had worn a watch with such an extension for any extended period and it was much appreciated; this would in most instances be a watch suited for thicker wrists than mine, so to make it fit securely I had to not only take the buckle tab to the last hole, I also had to close the divers’ extension to the very last notch. That said, I had no complaints whatsoever about the fit of the watch once I had it adjusted in this manner. As I alluded to above, this is a watch that doesn’t necessarily grow on you but certainly feels like it’s growing with you once you’ve had it strapped on for a few days.

Oris Aquis Chronograph - Clasp

Oris Aquis Chronograph – Clasp

Oris_Oris Aquis Chronograph - reclining 2

Oris_Oris Aquis Chronograph – reclining 2

The Oris Aquis Chronograph (which is available in five styles, with this blue-dialed look being far and away my favorite) carries a retail price of $3,700. It’s a lot of watch for under four grand, but of course we’ve come to expect such value propositions from Oris.

Time Explorers: 6 Watches Tough Enough for the Outdoors

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When climbing or hiking, mountain biking or camping, a watch needs to be sturdy and able to withstand scratches and impacts. Outdoors, far away from work, the pressures of everyday schedules quickly fall away. In this feature from the WatchTime archives, we highlight six watches designed to rediscover that lost time.

BALL WATCH ENGINEER HYDROCARBON DEVGRU ($2,199)

Ball Engineer Hydrocarbon DEVGRU - rubber strap - blue dial

Ball Engineer Hydrocarbon DEVGRU

Hands gripping the wheel of the offroad vehicle as you race down the bumpy, rocky slope, your watch will need to withstand all sorts of rattles and shocks. Ball Watch secures the Engineer Hydrocarbon DEVGRU with a wide range of protective mechanisms in and on the case. the greatest point of weakness on a case – the crown – is surrounded by an unusual crown guard designed to protect the automatic ETA 2836 movement from damage. Ball Watch uses a patented anti-shock escapement system, and the hairspring is given a protective metal ring. Even the top crystal and the black dial are protected. The bezel of this 42-mm stainless-steel case extends slightly above the sapphire crystal to protect it from breakage. The case itself can withstand a fall from a height of 1.5 meters without damage – one-and-a-half times greater than the distance required by shock absorber standards. With water resistance of up to 100 meters and a rubber strap, the Engineer may easily take a plunge, even if your vehicle may not.

SINN EZM 12 ($3,340)

Sinn EZM12

Sinn EZM12

Sinn calls its sturdy watches “Einsatzmesser,” or “mission timers,” also known as “EZM.” their functions are tailored to each watch’s specific application. The EZM 12 watch was designed for air rescue, with a bezel that can be removed using a special tool so the entire watch can be cleaned and disinfected after use. there’s an easy-to-use pulsometer track on the dial, which can be used to measure your heart rate or anyone else’s on your team. The EZM 12 features a 44-mm bead-blasted steel case that prevents distracting reflections. Sinn’s Tegiment coating protects the case from scratches by rocks or almost anything else. With a pressure resistance of up to 200 meters, the EZM 12 can stay on your wrist even during a refreshing dip in a mountain stream. Sinn guarantees its function within a temperature range of -45 to +80 degrees c (-49 to +176 degrees F) – a practical feature when climbing icy mountain peaks in summer temperatures.

TAG HEUER AQUARACER 300M KHAKI ($2,800)

TAG Heuer Aquaracer Khaki

TAG Heuer Aquaracer 300M Khaki

Pitching a tent in the middle of the woods, starting a campfire without a match – that’s roughing it. And to avoid waking any slumbering bears, it might be good to wear muted colors. The TAG Heuer Aquaracer 300M Khaki is unobtrusive, entirely decked out in natural khaki color. Water resistant to a depth of 300 meters, it can accompany scouts on expeditions in and under water. The fabric strap provides a secure fit on the wrist and can be completely removed if needed. The case measures 43 mm across and is made of black PVD-coated titanium. This material is especially lightweight but very sturdy and resilient. TAG Heuer combines it with another hard, scratch-resistant material in the form of a green anodized aluminum bezel. The watch is powered by an automatic ETA 2824 movement, which can help the wearer remember to turn the steaks on the grill promptly.

ORIS BIG CROWN PROPILOT CHRONOGRAPH ($3,400)

 

Oris Big Crown ProPilot Chronograph

Oris Big Crown ProPilot Chronograph

Excursions into nature are fun until the weather turns nasty. That’s when a chronograph with a telemeter track can come in handy. It’s a way to measure your distance from threatening thunderclouds and lightning. Registering the time on the track between seeing lightning and hearing thunder allows you to determine the distance. The Big Crown ProPilot Chronograph from Oris provides this helpful feature. It’s powered by an automatic Sellita SW500 movement, housed in a 44-mm stainless-steel case. A grooved case edge and a fabric strap in black or green provide a sporty look. After the day’s excursion is done, you can change the look with an easy-to-attach leather strap.

FORMEX AS 1100, MODEL 8199 ($1,585)

Formex AS 1100 Model 8199

Formex AS 1100 Model 8199

Extreme sports like offroad racing and freestyle mountain biking are attracting more and more thrill seekers. An outdoor watch for these activities needs to be carefully designed to withstand shocks and impacts. Formex has created a special, patented shock-absorbing case — made of titanium, measuring 46.5 mm in diameter, and easily recognizable by its four-cornered design — for the 8199 chronograph. The suspension system is designed for greater wearing comfort and to protect its automatic ETA Valjoux 7750 movement from vibration and impacts. This technology has an inherently technical and sporty look, with a black PVD finish on the case and a black carbon fiber dial. All-white dial elements and highlighted hands ensure excellent legibility. The chronograph hands stand out in bright red. The model 8199 in the AS 1100 collection is limited to 999 pieces. A rubber strap holds the watch securely in place, even during the most daring mountain bike maneuvers.

DAMASKO DA 43 BLACK (1,440 euros)

Damasko DA 43 Black

Damasko DA 43 Black

A Damasko watch will look like new even after the most strenuous hike – probably much better than its wearer! For its timepieces, Damasko uses exclusive cold-hardened, nickel-free stainless steel. This metal is about four times harder than conventional stainless steel due to its special heat treatment. The 42-mm case also has a black Damest coating that makes scratching it virtually impossible. In combination with a screw-down crown, crown guard and threaded caseback, the DA 43 Black is water resistant to a depth of 100 meters. It runs on an automatic ETA 2836 that shows the time, date and day of the week. The movement is protected against magnetic fields thanks to a soft iron inner lining. The entire surface of the dial is coated with Super-LumiNova so it is perfectly legible at all times.

Time Tools: 8 Tool Watches From Luxury Brands

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The phrase “tool watch” was originally coined to describe watches that serve as tools to accomplish specific tasks, such as a divers’ watch with a rotatable bezel and high resistance to pressure that is designed to be used underwater. And while you wouldn’t want to use these tool watches to hammer nails, they emphasize functionality and are robust, accurate, legible and (ideally) not excessively expensive in case they suffer a scratch or two during rough usage. In this article from our archives, we present eight of them.

1. ORIS BIG CROWN PROPILOT DATE ($1,550)

Oris Big Crown ProPilot

Oris Big Crown ProPilot Date

This pilots’ watch from Oris achieves optimal legibility thanks to its matte dial and impossible-to-overlook hands and numerals, which are coated with plenty of luminous material. The big crown can be operated while wearing gloves. The textile strap is steplessly adjustable thanks to a clamping system; the clasp works like the buckle on a seatbelt aboard an aircraft. With a date display on its dial and a time- tested automatic movement inside its case, this watch offers everything you need. Stainless steel, 41 mm, Sellita SW 220, automatic

2. TUDOR PELAGOS LHD ($4,400)

Tudor Pelagos LHD

Tudor Pelagos LHD

The letters “LHD” in the name of this divers’ watch stand for “left-hand drive,” like a car with its steering wheel on the left. For a watch, LHD means that the crown is located opposite its usual position. This is convenient for a southpaw who wears the watch on his right wrist. But this watch can also be worn on the left wrist, thus keeping the crown especially well protected against impacts. Tudor’s own auto- matic movement has earned a chronometer certificate and accordingly runs with great precision. The titanium case is extremely resistant to salt- water and can resist water pressure to a depth of 500 meters. A helium-release valve rounds out the professional equipment. Titanium, 42 mm, manufacture Caliber MT5612, automatic; click here for more details.

3. CERTINA DS ACTION DIVER AUTOMATIC ($895)

Certina DS Action Diver

Certina DS Action Diver Automatic

The DS Action Diver Automatic upholds the ISO standard for divers’ watches. The stainless-steel case is water resistant to 200 meters and has a rotatable bezel with a diving scale. The dial has luminous indexes, along with plenty of luminous material on the hands to assure that the face is always clearly legible, even underwater and in the dark. The time-tested automatic movement and the robust stainless-steel bracelet equip this timepiece for every mission. The price is appealing, too. Stainless steel, 43.2 mm, ETA 2824, automatic.

4. SEIKO PROSPEX AUTOMATIC DIVER’S ($495)

Seiko Prospex Diver

Seiko Prospex Automatic Diver’s

Nicknamed “Turtle” because of the shape of its case, the Prospex Automatic Diver’s was introduced in the 1970s. With an indestructible urethane wristband, a case that resists water pressure to a depth of 200 meters, and a unidirectional rotatable bezel, this watch is optimally equipped to accompany a diver underwater. And despite its low price, it has a self-winding manufacture movement. Seiko makes the crystal from Hardlex, which isn’t quite as scratch-resistant as sapphire, but nonetheless harder than ordinary mineral crystal. Stainless steel, 44 mm, manufacture Caliber 4R36, automatic.

5. TAG HEUER AQUARACER 300M CALIBRE 5 ($2,800)

TAG Heuer Aquaracer Calibre 5

TAG Heuer Aquaracer 300M Calibre 5

This classic divers’ watch from TAG Heuer has a trendy military look with a black titanium case, sand-colored textile strap, and sand-colored elements and gray luminous material on the dial. The watch has plenty to offer from a functional standpoint, too: Black titanium-carbide coating resists scratches and the screwed crown contributes toward achieving pressure resistance to a depth of 300 meters. The nonreflective treatment on the sapphire crystal helps assure good legibility. Titanium coated with titanium carbide, 43 mm, ETA 2824 or Sellita SW 200, automatic.

6. BREITLING AVENGER BLACKBIRD ($5,105)

Breitling Avenger Blackbird

Breitling Avenger Blackbird

The militarily inspired Avenger Blackbird has a distinctive 48-mm case made of DLC-coated titanium. The coating helps prevent reflections from light, which could betray its wearer’s location. With a unidirectional rotatable bezel, screwed crown, and water resistance to 300 meters, this timepiece is also suitable for diving. In addition to the case, the dial and textile strap are also black. The luminous material on the hands and indexes is beige in daylight conditions. Breitling’s Caliber 17 is based on an ETA 2824 movement and has earned a chronometer certificate to confirm its accuracy. DLC-coated titanium, 48 mm, ETA 2824, automatic; for more on the Blackbird, click here.)

7. ROLEX EXPLORER II ($8,100)

Rolex Explorer II

Rolex Explorer II

This watch, which debuted in 1971, is made for adventurers, researchers and expedition members. Equipped with a second time zone, the continually updated design has become iconic. This model epitomizes a tool watch, although its high price might make its wearer feel annoyed if the case should suffer a scratch or two. The 904L stainless steel that Rolex uses is more resistant to saltwater than ordinary 316L steel. And Rolex’s manufacture caliber is regarded as the sturdiest and lowest-maintenance automatic movement. Rolex’s famous accuracy is assured not only by a chronometer certificate, but also by the brand’s in-house standards, which specify that the watch be so finely adjusted that it neither gains nor loses more than two seconds per day. Stainless steel, 42 mm, manufacture Caliber 3187, automatic.

8. ALPINA ALPINER 4 AUTOMATIC ($1,395)

Alpina Alpiner 4

Alpina Alpiner 4 Automatic

Developed for rugged excursions and mountain climbing, the Alpiner 4 is equipped with a sturdy, 44-mm stainless-steel case and a unidirectional rotatable bezel. A soft-iron inner case protects the automatic movement against magnetic fields. The hands and indexes are coated with white luminous material for good legibility. The screwed crown helps keep the case water resistant to 100 meters. Stainless steel, 44 mm, Sellita SW 200, automatic; more details here.)

This article appears in the July-August 2017 issue of WatchTime Magazine.

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